It would seem fitting to pair such fare as this crab-and-pasta preparation with wines equally rich and opulent. But nuanced, aged reds or buttery, oaky whites also overplay and tire the palate. Sometimes simple and clean is better, as a yin to the crab’s yang. The chardonnay is high-end, but lean and barely oaked. The super-fresh sparkler from Italy is celebratory and fits the theme. And the unique white from Chile is the perfect humble background wine to let the dish shine.
The food: Garlicky crab with pasta
Add 2 pounds king crab legs to a stockpot of salted boiling water; boil until crab is cooked through, 6 minutes. Transfer crab to a colander. Add 1 pound spaghetti to the crab water; cook until al dente. Meanwhile, crack crab legs into smaller pieces. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a skillet. Add 4 cloves minced garlic; cook until aromatic, 1-2 minutes. Add crab legs and 1/4 cup chopped parsley; toss to coat. Transfer to a plate. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet. Add drained pasta, tossing until well coated. Serve, topped with the crab. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Bill Daley
The wines:
• 2013 Mayu Pedro Ximenez, Elqui, Chile: Simply delivered apple- and pearlike fruit and soft texture, with sufficient acidity for cleansing. $15
• 2011 Etude Chardonnay Grace Benoist Ranch, Carneros, Calif.: From cool-climate southern Sonoma; linear and pure; no woody or sugary geegaws and bright, citrusy fruit to boot. $35
• NV Berlucchi Brut Cuvee 61, Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy: Champagne-method bubbly; blend of pinot noir and chardonnay; less nuanced than the French but a third the price. $20
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