For Thanksgiving this year, we’re highlighting a trio of wines that might not fall into the “usual suspects” category, but they’re versatile and well-matched to the flavors of the season, whether you keep your meal classic or decide to mix it up.

Domäne Wachau grüner veltliner 2023. The typical approach for Thanksgiving white wine is to go for a richer style, to match the rich flavors. While we’re fans of that approach, sometimes we find it more pleasant to provide contrast with a refreshing, high-acid white. We’ve found that grüner veltliner is a white wine that seems to make most people happy, and it’s a perfect partner with bitter green vegetables. Its high acid content also cuts through richer or fried dishes, so it’s more versatile than you might expect. It’s a perfect partner for pre-dinner platters of crudités and cheeses, and it’s a delight with Brussels sprouts, green bean casserole and bitter seasonal salads. This wine offers green apple, crisp fennel, white grapefruit, sweet woodruff and mineral tastes.

Catch & Release Block Party 2023. This wine provides a twist on the traditional pairing of aromatic Alsatian whites with Thanksgiving dinner. Featuring three of the classic grapes of Alsace — pinot gris, gewurztraminer, and riesling — this California wine is made in a skin-contact (orange wine) style and offers hints of persimmon, cantaloupe, orange slice candy and rooibos tea. Catch & Release is an exciting, creative project, as well as a love letter to small farms in Northern California. The rosy-orange color radiates fall, and the velvety textures and ripe flavors harmonize with earthy-sweet dishes, such as sweet potatoes, cornbread stuffing and butternut squash soup.

Ronchi di Cialla RiNera schioppettino 2021. We love a great gamay as much as anyone, but there is no shortage of Beaujolais advice in the wine world during November. So, we thought it would be fun to give you an alternative in the form of this unique northern Italian red, made from the schioppettino grape of the Friuli region. Ronchi di Cialla played a significant role in resurrecting the grape from virtual extinction in the 1970s, and this wine takes its name from ribolla nera, an old local name for the grape. Not unlike gamay, it has pleasantly rustic red berry fruit, mellow tannins and fresh acidity, with red currant, cracked black pepper, dried blueberry, red floral and thyme flavors discernible. This wine goes great with dark-meat turkey and herb-infused cranberry sauce, as well as dishes ranging from eggplant Parmesan to grilled fish.