When owner Pam Ledbetter got the keys to a restaurant space on the edge of Decatur, she remembers shouting, “Wahoo!” That’s what she dubbed the restaurant, and after tasting the fish of the same name that she serves, I think it also is worthy of such a shout.

A hint of smoke from the grill underscores the meaty texture of the wahoo, the exterior of which is burnished to a golden hue that you can taste. The flesh, meanwhile, is mild, slightly sweet and flaky. The fillet rests on a bed of cherry tomatoes and lady pea ragu. The cooked tomatoes are sweet, with intensified flavor. Smaller and sweeter than regular peas, the creamy, buttery summer lady peas complement the delicate fish while adding texture. Additionally, a zesty, vibrant salsa verde highlights the freshness of the fish, and spinach provides earthy undertones.

Individually, each component of the dish is fun and flavorful, but combined they make each forkful a fresh summertime experience that is enhanced by the garden atmosphere of the patio.

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