While Buffalo, New York, lays claim to the invention of the spicy chicken wing, our Atlanta influence is deliciously evident in the city’s signature lemon pepper wet seasoning style. More than a flavor, it’s a culinary emblem.
The homegrown innovation emerged as a way to temper the heat of traditional Buffalo wings as well as a more sophisticated (and less messy) alternative served at strip clubs like Magic City, a legendary venue for the burgeoning hip-hop fashion and music scene. Rappers don’t just eat them — they immortalize them in song lyrics. Shows such as FX’s “Atlanta” cemented their iconic status.
Atlanta can make almost anything lemon pepper wet, coated in the sauce made from clarified butter mixed with lemon pepper seasoning and sometimes Buffalo sauce. It’s commonly found on tangy wings, either deep-fried or sometimes baked. The flavor can present a formidable challenge for even the most seasoned sommelier, but Atlanta’s wine experts were quick to offer their take on the perfect pour.
Credit: Janeen Jason
Credit: Janeen Jason
When asked which wine pairs best with lemon pepper wet, several Atlanta sommeliers, including Jade Palmer of Madeira Park, suggested R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia. It’s a white Rioja (100% viura, a white grape of northeast Spain) aged four years in oak barrels before being aged in the bottle and released when the winery deems it ready.
“With the consistent elevation of the hospitality experiences in Atlanta, it only makes sense to have a baller wine pairing for such an iconic dish,” Palmer said, calling the Vina Gravonia “beautifully complex with notes of yellow apple, honeycomb, orange marmalade, savory spices and mixed nuts.” The Marques de Murrieta Rioja Blanco, a younger wine available at Madeira Park, would also work well, Palmer advised.
A certified sommelier and wine buyer for VinoTeca in Inman Park, Janeen Jason concurs with Palmer. Jason’s first experience with lemon pepper wet was at a strip club. “There’s some serious wing competition in this city, but they don’t compare to the spice of lemon pepper, and the best come from strip clubs,” he said. “There was one bottle share (a tasting among a group of wine experts) that enlightened most of the Atlanta wine community about a glorious pairing (with wings) — R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia, my absolute favorite bottling of white wine ever.”
I recently spotted the Vina Gravonia at Elemental Spirits Co. For an alternative, Jason also suggested Planeta La Segreta, a grillo (a white Italian grape that withstands high temperatures) from Sicily. “It’s full of salty, citrus fruit and plenty of acid to refresh the palate for more wings.
Credit: Janeen Jason
Credit: Janeen Jason
A proud native of metro Atlanta, 3 Parks Wine Shop owner and sommelier Sarah Pierre has a deep-seated love for wings, calling herself an aficionado based on her enjoyment of wings ranging from 10-cent deals to recent favorites at Twain’s and Big Boss Chinese. She believes pairings are about gratification first and not rigid rules, especially for Atlanta wings. “You eat the wings, you drink the wine, you have a good time.”
To complement lemon pepper wet’s “little bit of tang and little bit of spice,” she recommended aligote, a dry white from Burgundy, specifically Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne aligote.
Credit: Brandon Amato
Credit: Brandon Amato
Aria sommelier Remy Loet leans toward a high-low (fancy and comfort) pairing to reflect Atlanta’s energy when it comes to lemon pepper wet. “Bright with minerality, full of citrus and with clean and focused acidity, Luis Seabra’s Granito Cru Alvarinho brings that kind of energy to the table,” Loet said. “It doesn’t match the wings; it lifts them.” The wine cuts through richness and finishes with freshness. Seabra’s goal is to make wines that reflect place, with old vines and native yeasts. “That’s why this pairing works so well,” Loet said. “You’ve got wings that help define a city and a wine that is helping define a new chapter in Portuguese winemaking, each rooted, expressive and full of identity.”
Credit: handout
Credit: handout
When Juan Cortes moved to the U.S. at age 13, there were two Atlanta foods he had to learn how to eat: boiled peanuts and wings. “First, you learn how to eat them, and then, you learn how to order them: all flats or drums, mild, hot, lemon pepper wet, ranch or blue cheese,” he said. The Michelin guide Atlanta 2023 Sommelier of the Year Award winner, formerly of The Chastain, runs natural wine pop-up Stanky Wine, where he says they like to “break the boundaries and try funky combinations.” His wing wine pairing recommendation is Luna Duna Naranjo from Mendoza, Argentina. The blend of mission grapes Moscatel Rosado and criolla Blanca comes from old vines planted in the 1930s. The skin contact gives it an attention-grabbing color. He said, “The acid slices through like butter and subtle bitterness cuts through the pepper.”
Avize beverage director and sommelier Taurean Philpott pairs wine with lemon pepper wet frog legs at the restaurant in West Midtown. He considers the structure of the sauce, the richness of the butter, the acidity of the lemon, and the accent of garlic and black pepper when approaching the task. “The mineral backbone, green notes, excellent acidity and subtle white pepper aromas of Gruner Veltliner pairs wonderfully,” he said. For wings, he proposes a Champagne with texture and some level of oxidation, such as R. Pouillon Solera Extra Brut. His runners-up include Bourgogne aligote or kabinett riesling with low acidity, low alcohol and a hint of sweetness.
Loet pointed out that “great wine doesn’t have to be reserved for fine dining; it belongs wherever there is good food and good energy.” Pairing wine and lemon pepper wet is delicious fun for sommeliers and diners alike.
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