If you’ve studied the botany of squash, you know there are male blossoms and female blossoms. The male blossoms have short straight stems attaching them to the squash vine. At the base of each female blossom there’s a tiny baby fruit. If the flower is fertilized, that fruit will grow into the squash we enjoy for dinner.
The squash blossoms themselves can be a part of dinner, eaten raw, sliced and sautéed with other ingredients or stuffed and fried where they turn light and crisp, the vegetable equivalent of phyllo pastry.
Celia Barss of Woodland Gardens, a certified organic market garden in Winterville, sells most of her squash blossoms to her restaurant clients. “We sell at least as many blossoms as we sell actual squash fruit,” she said. What she doesn’t sell to restaurants she brings to the Morningside Farmers’ Market on Saturday mornings. Barss sells the blossoms in small plastic containers that hold 6 or 7 flowers each.
Harvesting the blossoms is done first thing in the morning just as the flowers are opening. If they wait too long, the blossoms may be sheltering an insect or two. Barss and her crew go out at 7 a.m. to harvest what they’ll need for the day. Although others may harvest the female blossoms with their little immature fruits, Woodland Gardens sells only male blossoms.
They grow 12 different kinds of squash and the blossoms of each are edible. “I think the best ones are the zucchini varieties, the flowers are sturdier and bigger,” Barss said.
Some restaurants ensure a steady supply of blossoms by growing their own. At Ecco restaurant in Midtown Atlanta, chef Craig Richards is growing heirloom squash in the restaurant’s roof top garden.
“We wanted to grow heirloom squash and using the blossoms is an added bonus. I like cooking with them because they have a slight squash flavor yet they're delicate and carry other flavors really well,” Richards said.
Squash blossoms are perishable. They’re best prepared the day they’re harvested but if properly stored in a stiff-sided container with just a little air circulation, will hold up for about 3 days before wilting and becoming too difficult to work with. When working with the blossoms, it's easiest to leave the stems on, but since the stems can be a little tough, you may not want to eat them.
Local farmers markets are starting up their festival season with special days devoted to a particular fruit or vegetable. Morningside Farmers Market will hold its annual Blueberry Pancake Breakfast this weekend. Ron Eyester of Rosebud will be cooking up the pancakes. All proceeds go to benefit the market.
On June 28, East Atlanta Village Farmers Market will hold its second annual Peach Jam Cocktail Competition.
At local farmers markets
Cooking demos:
6 p.m. Thursday, June 21. Chef Seth Freedman of Forage and Flame. East Atlanta Village Farmer's Market, Atlanta. www.farmeav.com
9:30 a.m. Saturday, June 23. Chef Duane Nutter of One Flew South, working with blueberries. Morningside Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.morningsidemarket.com Bluerry bery festival
10 a.m. Saturday, June 23. Chef Ron Eyester of Rosebud. Peachtree Road Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.peachtreeroadfarmersmarket.com
11 a.m. Saturday, June 23. Chef Rafih Benjelloun of Imperial Fez. Green Market at Piedmont Park, Atlanta. www.piedmontpark.org
11:30 a.m. Sunday, June 24. Chef Billy Allin of Cakes and Ale. Grant Park Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.grantparkmarket.org
For sale
Vegetables and fruit: arugula, Asian greens, beets, blackberries, blueberries, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, chicory, collards, cucumbers, dandelion, eggplant, escarole, fennel, frisée, garlic, green beans, green onions, herbs, kale, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, mustard greens, okra, onions, pea tendrils, peaches, pecans peppers, plums, potatoes, radishes, sorrel, spinach, squash blossoms, strawberries, summer squash, tomatoes, turnips, zucchini
From local reports
Ecco’s Stuffed and Fried Squash Blossoms
Hands on: 35 minutes
Total time: 35 minutes
Serves: 6
Chef Craig Richards of Ecco is offering these stuffed blossoms as a special this week. “I like cooking with them because they have a slight squash flavor yet they’re delicate and carry other flavors really well,” he said. His recipe is a riff on a common Italian preparation. “It’s a study in textural contrasts between the crisp exterior and soft, creamy interior with anchovy adding a brininess,” he said. Taste the cheese filling before you begin stuffing the blossoms and adjust the amount of anchovy and peppers to your taste. For our photo, Richards plated the blossoms with a basil emulsion and fried basil leaves.
Vegetable oil
24 squash blossoms
6 ounces mozzarella (about 1 1/4 cups), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
4 coarsely chopped anchovy filets, or to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
1/2 cup rice flour
1 tablespoon cornstarch
3/4 cup club soda, or as needed
In a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven, heat 2-inches oil to 375 degrees.
In a small bowl, combine mozzarella, anchovies, basil, pepper and pepper flakes. Stuff each blossom with mixture and twist petals to retain stuffing. Set on a platter.
In a small bowl, whisk together rice flour and cornstarch. Whisk in club soda to make a thin batter.
One at a time, dip blossoms into batter, turning to coat well. Carefully lower into hot oil. Add as many blossoms as will fit without crowding. Fry blossoms, turning frequently, until crisp and lightly browned, about 5 minutes total. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt, if desired, and serve immediately. Repeat with remaining blossoms.
Per serving: 257 calories (percent of calories from fat, 68), 8 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, 20 grams fat (6 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 222 milligrams sodium.
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