Diwali, celebrated this year beginning Nov. 3, is a multiday festival marking the start of a new calendar and financial year for much of India. Gift giving, family visits and huge fireworks displays are integral parts of the holiday. And sweets. Lots of sweets to foreshadow a sweet new year.
“Diwali is India’s biggest holiday, like Christmas, New Year’s and the Fourth of July all rolled into one,” Meherwan Irani said. Irani and his wife, Molly, are the owners of Chai Pani in Decatur. The restaurant opened March 1 this year, a sister restaurant to the couple’s 4-year-old location in Asheville, N.C.
The word “diwali” derives from the Sanskrit for “row of lights.” Like Christmas, it’s become a nonsectarian celebration as well as a religious observance.
To get ready for the holiday, families clean house to get rid of the old and bring in the new. “Once the house is cleaned and purified, then they light lamps all around the house to dispel the darkness and bring in Lakshmi, the goddess of prosperity and wealth. Kids get new clothes, and evenings are spent socializing with family and friends,” Meherwan Irani said.
“Depending on their religion, families will have a ceremony in their houses or go to a temple nearby. Everybody is in a good mood, parents are handing out treats, and at night, everywhere you go, everything is lit up and beautiful. As a kid, Diwali was the most amazing festival. It lasts five days, all the schools are out and it’s all about food, fireworks and sweets. What kid isn’t going to love that?” Irani asked.
Irani was born in London and moved with his family to Ahmadnagar, Maharashtra, India, when he was 4. “Then in 1990, I was shipped off to America to find my fame and fortune like every good Indian kid,” joked Irani, who came to the United States to earn his MBA.
He met his future wife, Molly, while working in her family’s restaurant in Myrtle Beach, S.C., while on summer break from graduate school. As he said, “The rest is history.”
Irani went into real estate development, but the financial crisis of 2009 helped him realize what he really wanted to do was to own a restaurant. Within two months, he had the keys to a building, and the first Chai Pani was underway.
“Food is a huge part of Diwali, mostly sweets. They symbolize the sweetness of life, sweetness of relationships, sweetness of family. Giving sweets to another family is bringing sweetness into their home,” Irani said. Every shop window will display a variety of complex sweet treats along with the oil lamps that symbolize the holiday.
Families visit from house to house, bringing sweets. “Each family also puts out its own sweets as well as savory snacks. Pakoras are one of the iconic dishes, often made with onions, potatoes and spinach. In my part of India, pooris are often served. I remember my mom making them. We’d watch as almost like magic the breads would puff up in the hot oil. We’d poke a hole to let out the hot air and then stuff them with potatoes,” Irani said.
Purchased sweets are elaborate affairs with special sweet makers vying to outdo one another. “With the sweets, you get taste overload, fragrance overload and then they’re beautiful to look at. Guests would present little boxes of sweets. Inside would be little squares of milk fudge decorated with gold leaf and raisins and pistachios, and the whole box would smell of cinnamon. I can literally smell this right now,” Irani said.
To celebrate its first Diwali in Decatur, Chai Pani is hosting "Diwali Mela," a benefit for the nonprofit Go Eat Give that celebrates culture through food, travel and community service. From 6:30-11 p.m. Nov. 10, ticketed guests will enjoy nonstop street food and a specialty cocktail. There'll be Bollywood music, henna painting and shopping for Indian accessories. For more information: http://diwalimela.splashthat.com/.
Irani welcomes this chance to celebrate Chai Pani’s first Diwali in Decatur with the Indian community and other friends. “We’re hoping it will become an integral part of our story here in the Atlanta area,” he said.
Recipes
Celebrate Diwali at your home with these recipes from Chai Pani. Pakoras and pooris make perfect party food, and these sweets will help welcome in a sweet new year for all. All ingredients are easily available at Indian groceries or at the Buford Highway Farmers Market.
Pakoras
Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes
Makes: 24
Chai Pani’s pakoras are fried vegetable fritters, although pakoras can be made with meat as well. The thick batter makes fritters that hold up well after frying. You can make pakoras with just one vegetable or a mixture.
Although as with all fried foods, the pakoras are best served immediately, you can make these for a crowd by frying and then draining them on a wire rack placed over a rimmed cookie sheet. Keep the pakoras warm in a 200-degree oven until all are done.
Ajwain are seeds with a thyme-like flavor. The seeds are always sold whole and should be ground in a spice grinder for this recipe. Or you can substitute 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme.
Chaat masala is a delicious mixture of cumin, coriander, fennel, mango powder and other spices. It’s widely used on salads, snacks and in drinks and is generally purchased although recipes are available online.
Pakoras are traditionally served with chutney. Chai Pani’s green chutney is a pureed mixture of cooked chana dal, cilantro, serrano peppers and garlic seasoned with sugar, salt and lime juice and then thinned with water to the desired consistency.
Vegetable oil for frying
4 cups besan (chickpea flour)
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon cumin
2 teaspoons ground ajwain
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 1/2 cups warm water
1 1/2 cups cilantro leaves (one large bunch)
1/4 cup finely minced serrano chiles
7 cups vegetables of your choice: onion rings, sliced potatoes or squash, squash blossoms, torn kale, sliced bell peppers or mushrooms
Chaat masala, for garnish
Raita, to be served alongside (see recipe)
In a deep saucepan or wok, add oil to a depth of 2 inches. Heat oil to 350 degrees.
While oil is heating, make batter. In a large bowl, combine besan, salt, cumin, ajwain, cayenne and turmeric. Whisk together, then slowly add water, whisking constantly until very smooth. Stir in cilantro and chiles and mix well. Taste for salt.
When oil is ready, dip vegetables one piece at a time into batter, or if using mixed vegetables, stir the vegetables into the batter and use a 1/4 cup measure to scoop out each pakora. Carefully lower into hot oil. Add more pakoras to hot oil, but avoid crowding saucepan. Fry until pakoras are golden, turning occasionally. Timing will depend on vegetables but should take about 2 minutes. Remove pakoras when golden and drain. Dust with salt or chaat masala and serve immediately or keep warm as described in note above. Continue until all batter is used. Serve with Raita and chutney.
Adapted from a recipe provided by Meherwan Irani.
Per serving: 158 calories (percent of calories from fat, 57), 4 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 10 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 456 milligrams sodium.
Raita
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes
Makes: 1 3/4 cups
1 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup grated radish
1/4 cup grated carrot
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 teaspoon salt
Chaat masala, for garnish
In a small bowl, combine yogurt, radish, carrot, cilantro, lime juice and salt. Taste for seasoning. May be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. When ready to serve, sprinkle with chaat masala.
Adapted from a recipe by chef Hilary West of the Hil, Serenbe.
Per 2-tablespoon serving: 14 calories (percent of calories from fat, 18), 1 gram protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), 1 milligram cholesterol, 107 milligrams sodium.
Poori Bhaji (Sauteed Potatoes with Fried Flatbreads)
Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes
Makes: 22
Pooris are traditionally made with atta, milled from durum wheat. Traditional American whole-wheat flour also works fine. These little breads puff almost magically and will impress your guests no end. The aloo bhaji filling can be just potatoes, as in this recipe, or have other vegetables or lentils added to the mix.
For the pooris:
1 1/4 cups sifted whole-wheat flour
Pinch salt
Pinch granulated sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons oil plus oil for frying, divided
1/4 cup lukewarm water, more if needed
For the aloo bhaji:
2 large potatoes, cut in quarters (about 1 1/4 pounds)
Salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 green chiles, chopped
2 curry leaves
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
Pinch asafetida powder
Pinch granulated sugar
Juice of 2 small limes
Chopped cilantro and tomato, for garnish
To make pooris:
In a large bowl, make dough by whisking together flour, salt and sugar. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil and mix by hand to evenly distribute the oil in the mixture. Stir in enough water to make a firm dough. Dough should not be too soft. Oil hands with 1/2 tablespoon oil and knead dough for 5 minutes or until very smooth. Set dough aside, covered with a damp towel, and let it rest for 30 minutes.
While dough is resting, make aloo bhaji.
In a large saucepan, boil potatoes in well-salted water to cover until cooked through but still firm, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes and cool slightly. Peel and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat slightly and add mustard seeds. They will begin popping. Immediately add green chiles, curry leaves and cumin and stir. Then add turmeric and asafetida. Add diced cooked potatoes and sugar and cook for several minutes. Taste for seasoning. When everything is heated through, add lime juice and toss. Garnish with cilantro and tomato. Keep warm until ready to use.
When poori dough has rested, roll into a long sausage-shaped roll about 1 inch thick. Cut into 1-inch pieces. You should have about 22.
In a deep saucepan or wok, add oil to a depth of 2 inches. Heat oil to 350 degrees.
Lightly oil hands and rolling pin and roll each piece into a 3-inch round. Ends should be slightly thinner than center. Add more oil to hands and rolling pin if needed to keep dough from sticking. As each round, or poori, is ready, arrange on a plate, not touching. Cover lightly with a dish towel or plastic wrap.
When oil is ready, carefully slide one poori at a time into the oil. Do not crowd pan. Pooris will sink to the bottom and then immediately rise. Use a heat-safe slotted spoon to gently press each poori until it puffs up like a balloon. Turn so that both sides brown, about 1 minute total. Once golden, lift each poori and let excess oil drain off, then drain on paper towels.
Continue rolling and frying until all pooris are cooked. Cooked pooris should retain their fluffy shape and be soft. If they are too hard, fry them less or adjust the heat of the oil. If they are not puffing, make sure that the dough is evenly rolled and not too thin in the center. They are best served piping hot with the aloo bhaji. To eat, poke a hole in the poori and fill with aloo bhaji.
Adapted from a recipe provided by Meherwan Irani.
Per poori with filling: 143 calories (percent of calories from fat, 59), 2 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 9 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 9 milligrams sodium.
Badam Paprh (Almond Sweetmeats)
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 15 minutes
Serves: 8
1 1/4 cup blanched almonds
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
Powdered sugar
Edible silver leaf, for garnish, if desired
In the bowl of a food processor, process the almonds until finely ground and oily, about 2 minutes. The ground nuts should begin to start clumping together. Add brown sugar and process another minute.
Take mixture out of bowl and knead about 1 minute or mixture is very smooth. Almonds will continue to exude oil, and the dough will hold more firmly together. Divide dough into 8 portions and roll each into a ball. Lightly coat balls with powdered sugar and then roll out into a 2-inch round.
Can be made ahead of time and stored up to 2 weeks in an airtight container, with sheets of waxed paper between each candy. When ready to serve, top each candy with a piece of edible silver leaf if desired.
Adapted from a recipe in “Passionate Meals” by Ishmail Merchant (Hyperion, out of print but available online).
Per serving: 170 calories (percent of calories from fat, 59), 5 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 6 milligrams sodium.
Kheer (Rice Pudding)
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 35 minutes
Makes: 1 cup
Meherwan Irani, one of the owners of Chai Pani in Decatur, notes that it’s important to cook the rice completely before adding sugar. Once the sugar is added, the rice will not soften further. While he suggests raisins and cashews in this recipe, he says you can use any nuts and dried fruit you prefer.
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, divided
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons white rice, rinsed to remove excess starch
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons condensed milk
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1 tablespoon golden raisins
1 tablespoon unsalted cashews
In a saucepan, combine 1/2 cup water, milk and rice. Turn heat to medium and bring mixture to a slow boil. Stir frequently. Cook until rice is soft but still retains its shape, about 15 minutes.
While the rice is cooking, in a small saucepan, combine sugar and remaining 2 tablespoons water. Heat the mixture just enough to dissolve the sugar.
Once rice has cooked, add sugar syrup and condensed milk. Once mixture comes back to a simmer, turn off heat and add cardamom. Serve hot, warm or cold, garnished with raisins and cashews.
Adapted from a recipe provided by Meherwan Irani.
Per 1/4-cup serving: 147 calories (percent of calories from fat, 19), 3 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 3 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 6 milligrams cholesterol, 29 milligrams sodium.
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