BY WENDELL BROCK
When I set out to research this week's story on winter citrus , one of the dishes I knew I wanted to try was Steven Satterfield's Blood Orange Ambrosia Rice Pudding, from his book, "Root to Leaf" (Harper Collins, $45).
Though I wasn't able to include the recipe in print for space reasons, it would be a shame not to share the Miller Union chef's idea for comforting rice pudding topped with broiled orange segments, toasted coconut and toasted almonds. (See recipe below.)
I had never made rice pudding, and Satterfield’s cooked up like a dream. (Just remember to stir frequently, especially toward the end, as the mixture thickens.)
The chef prefers Carolina Gold rice (though I had great luck with long-grained basmati), and he likes to the serve the pudding warm (which I think is a swell winter idea.)
I’ve got to tell you, though: The longer the individual compotes sat in my refrigerator, soaking up the ambrosial honey and citrus flavors, the more my friends brayed about that sweet indulgence.
It was a little early for blood oranges when I tested the recipe in early December. But they should be in markets soon, if not already. Meanwhile, I suggest sweet Cara Caras, with their ruby-colored interiors.
If you are interested in putting up citrus, Kevin West's "Saving the Season" (Knopf, $35) is indispensable.
A couple of seasons ago, I tried the Tennessee-born author’s Kumquats in Burnt Honey Syrup, Winter Fruit Cocktail and Lime Curd — each one a dazzler.
Now I’m dying to go on a marmalade spree, and cook West’s Time-to-Kill Marmalade with Blood Oranges and Meyer Lemons and Kumquat Marmalade with Orange Zest and Rum.
If you have leftover citrus peel, West tells you how to dry it. (I have a container full in my pantry). He also suggests shaking up cocktails with leftover Winter Fruit Cocktail juice and making bourbon toddies with a dollop of lime marmalade. Perfect for winter!
Steven Satterfield’s Blood Orange Ambrosia Rice Pudding
4½ cups whole milk
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup white rice, preferably Carolina Gold
2 blood oranges (may use any navel orange)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons local honey
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus a pinch
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup skin-on sliced almonds, toasted
¼ cup shredded coconut, toasted
In a saucepan over medium-low heat, combine 4 cups of the milk, the sugar and the rice. Simmer, covered, for 1 hour, stirring frequently. Remove the pan from the heat and let rest 10 minutes.
Turn the oven setting to broil; position a rack 4 inches from the broiler. Zest one of the oranges and set zest aside. “Supreme” both oranges; set aside.
(To supreme a piece of citrus: Cut both ends off the fruit. Place either end down on a cutting board; using your sharpest paring knife, trim away the skin and pith, following the natural curve of the fruit. Make sure to remove any remaining bits of pith. Now, with sharp strokes, cut out each section of fruit, leaving the remaining skin behind. Each little pristine skin- and pith-free segment is called a “supreme.”)
In a small saucepan or microwavable dish, melt the butter, honey and a pinch of sea salt. Pour over the orange segments; carefully turn the segments to coat. Spread out in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet.
Broil on top rack until the segments begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Carefully flip the segments to brown the other side, about 2-3 minutes. (Take care not to over-cook, or the fruit will disintegrate; however, it will still taste good.) Transfer the segments and pan juices to a bowl.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg, remaining ¼ cup milk, vanilla, reserved zest and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Stir into the rice mixture and return the pot to low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken, about 2 minutes.
To serve: Spoon the warm rice pudding into individual dishes. Divide the orange segments and juices among the bowls. Top with the toasted almonds and coconut. If you prefer to serve chilled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours before serving. I found that the pudding holds up well for a couple of day in the refrigerator — if you have any left. Serves: 6
Check out citrus recipes from other local chefs here
Read our review of Miller Union here
Read more about Steven Satterfield here
Find out where Steven Satterfield likes to eat in Atlanta here
Read the AJC Fall Dining Guide, Atlanta Around the Clock, here .
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