My first night at Mezza Luna, I fell a little bit in love.

I’d found an open seat at the bar. Over in the corner, an accordion player filled the air with a charming tune. The open kitchen had a line of gas burners turned up so high that it might as well have been a roaring fireplace. And, when I ordered a glass of Montepulciano, the pour was so generous I thought I might have stumbled into someone’s Italian home, not a joint on an unremarkable corner in suburban Atlanta.

Everyone, staff included, seems to be as comfortable here as they might be at home. When there’s a slow moment, Tony Strangolagalli, who runs the front of the house, likes to chat in Italian with the chef, Luigi Tartaglione, and sip espresso. They own the place together. Everybody speaks a little Italian: buonasera, buon appetito, il vino buono? It’s a charming routine that puts everyone at ease. Nothing happens in a hurry. People tend to linger, laughing and drinking and eating plate after plate. Tony and Luigi seem to love it.

When the mussels alla tarantina arrived, I understood why a few people have told me they love this place, too. It was a simple, homey dish of mussels doused in a buttery white wine sauce flecked with hunks of cherry tomato and a mellow garlic finish. With the fire in my eyes and the accordion in my ears, I could’ve drunk it right out of the bowl. Like I said, I fell a little bit in love.

But there was a plot twist. When the homemade gnocchi arrived in a half-gallon of thick, pink vodka sauce, I fell promptly out of love. What was this big, goopy plate of gummy dough balls and chewy pancetta hunks trying to do? Kill me?

Mezza Luna, 1669 Spring Road, Smyrna. 770-319-0333, mezza-luna.net

Scroll down to get a taste of what to expect if you visit Mezza Luna

Mussels alla Tarantina- in garlic oil and white wine sauce(in image) or marinara sauce. (BECKY STEIN PHOTOGRAPHY)

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

Fettuccine all Pescatora- fresh fettuccine, little neck clams, calamari, shrimps, mussels in white wine sauce. (or red) (BECKY STEIN PHOTOGRAPHY)

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

Homemade Gnocchi in vodka sauce. (BECKY STEIN PHOTOGRAPHY)

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

Homemade Rigatoni- caccio e peppe - buttery sauce with fresh ground black pepper. (BECKY STEIN PHOTOGRAPHY)

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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