RECIPES: ‘The Craft Brewery Cookbook’ reflects changes in world of beer

“The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” by John Holl (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95) contains recipes that "reflect where we are with beer right now,” Holl says. (Courtesy of Jon Page)

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“The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” by John Holl (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95) contains recipes that "reflect where we are with beer right now,” Holl says. (Courtesy of Jon Page)

For his latest cookbook, beer writer John Holl gathered recipes organized by styles and flavor profiles, along with glimpses of each of the breweries and beers featured in the book.

As Holl writes in the introduction to “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95), the pairings also highlight local and regional ingredients, from New England seafood to meat dishes from the Midwest. And several Southern breweries are highlighted in the mix, including metro Atlanta’s Good Word and New Realm, and Sierra Nevada in Mills River, North Carolina.

Holl’s first cookbook, “The American Craft Beer Cookbook: 155 Recipes From Your Favorite Brewpubs & Breweries” (Storey, $19.95), was published 10 years ago. As he notes, beer has changed a lot in that time.

“There are things in that book that I think are still great, and the recipes are still good, but the beer world has changed so much since then,” Holl said. “Things like kettle sours and hazy IPAs. But there’s also the trend toward the ‘better for you’ category, where now breweries are putting the calories on their cans, and nonalcoholic beer is on the rise. So the recipes in the new book reflect where we are with beer right now.”

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John Holl is the author of "The Craft Brewery Cookbook" (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jeff Quinn)

Credit: Jeff Quinn

John Holl is the author of "The Craft Brewery Cookbook" (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jeff Quinn)

Credit: Jeff Quinn

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John Holl is the author of "The Craft Brewery Cookbook" (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jeff Quinn)

Credit: Jeff Quinn

Credit: Jeff Quinn

What’s certain is that while beer drinkers have become much more sophisticated, and often more adventurous, they know what they want.

“It’s so interesting these days to walk into a taproom or a bar and hear somebody just say, ‘Do you have an IPA or do you have a Belgian wit?’ They’re not asking for a specific beer, they’re looking for a style,” Holl said. “By grouping the book by style, I think we can show diversity, but also just make it easier for readers to get to what they want faster. If you have an imperial stout in your fridge, you know what chapter to turn to.”

With more than 9,000 breweries in the U.S., the process of choosing what breweries to feature would seem to be a daunting task. But Holl considered it “a fun challenge” to pick a hundred or so.

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“When I started thinking about who would be good to represent in the book, I just started reaching out,” he said. “I wanted a mix of breweries that had been around for a while, ones that are still new, ones that are hyper-focused on certain styles, and people who are doing cool things in the beer and food space.

“This could easily be a nine-volume cookbook, and it still wouldn’t have everyone I like. I think all cookbooks are a snapshot in time, because food evolves. But this is the story right now, as far as I can tell from the stories from brewers and chefs.”

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Book Signings

“The Craft Brewery Cookbook” with John Holl. 4:30 p.m. July 11 at New Realm Brewing, 550 Somerset Terrace NE, Atlanta. 404-968-2777, newrealmbrewing.com. 5 p.m. July 12 at Good Word Brewing, 3085 Main St., Duluth. 404-973-2077, goodwordbrewing.com. More info: JohnHoll.com.

RECIPES

These recipes from “The Craft Brewery Cookbook” include a decadent bar snack, a hearty warm salad, and a grilled trout entree served with spring greens. Each recipe includes a recommended beer pairing.

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Dorito-crusted Scotch Eggs with Cumin-Fennel Marmalade and Pickled Fennel Fronds. This recipe from New Realm Brewing in Atlanta is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Dorito-crusted Scotch Eggs with Cumin-Fennel Marmalade and Pickled Fennel Fronds. This recipe from New Realm Brewing in Atlanta is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

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Dorito-crusted Scotch Eggs with Cumin-Fennel Marmalade and Pickled Fennel Fronds. This recipe from New Realm Brewing in Atlanta is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Credit: Jon Page

Dorito-crusted Scotch Eggs with Cumin-Fennel Marmalade and Pickled Fennel Fronds

Scotch eggs are a brewery staple. The beer pairing for this recipe from New Realm Brewing in Atlanta is Gose, a refreshing, low-alcohol beer, with slightly salty notes that work well with the richness of the dish.

Dorito-crusted Scotch Eggs with Cumin-Fennel Marmalade and Pickled Fennel Fronds
  • 4 large eggs, divided
  • 4 cups grapeseed oil
  • 2 tablespoons oat milk
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
  • 1 cup finely crushed Doritos
  • 6 ounces ground chicken
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
  • 1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
  • Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Cumin-Fennel Marmalade, for garnishing (see recipe)
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling to taste
  • Pickled Fennel Fronds, for garnishing (see recipe)
  • Bring a small pot of water to boil over high heat. Fill a bowl with ice water.
  • Add 2 of the eggs to the boiling water and cook for 8 minutes then transfer to the ice water and let rest for 1 minute. Carefully peel the shells from the eggs and pat the eggs dry with a paper towel and set aside.
  • Fill a large Dutch oven, deep pot, or deep fryer with 1 inch of the grapeseed oil and heat to 325 degrees on a thermometer. Line a plate with paper towels.
  • Break the remaining 2 eggs into a shallow bowl with oat milk and lightly beat. Put the flour, panko breadcrumbs, and crushed Doritos in separate shallow bowls.
  • In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, orange zest, oregano and juniper berries. Season with salt and pepper. Form half of the chicken mixture into a thin patty and then wrap the patty around 1 of the cooked eggs. Dip the chicken-wrapped egg in the flour, followed by the eggs, the panko breadcrumbs, and the Doritos. Repeat with the remaining cooked egg.
  • Carefully add the eggs to the oil and fry, turning occasionally, for 3-5 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate.
  • Cut the Scotch eggs lengthwise in half and arrange on a serving plate. Spoon some cumin-fennel marmalade on the plate, drizzle with olive oil, and top with the pickled fennel fronds. Finish with black pepper and serve immediately. Serves 2.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving (without marmalade or fronds): 1,110 calories (percent of calories from fat, 58), 39 grams protein, 79 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 71 grams total fat (11 grams saturated), 445 milligrams sodium.

Cumin-Fennel Marmalade
  • 1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
  • 1/4 cup hazelnut oil
  • 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
  • Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the chopped fennel and cook for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain the fennel and transfer to a food processor or blender. Add the hazelnut oil and cumin seeds, season with salt and pepper, and blend until the mixture forms a puree. Makes about 1 cup.
  • Per tablespoon: 33 calories (percent of calories from fat, 81), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 3 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 17 milligrams sodium.

Pickled Fennel Fronds
  • 1/2 cup white wine vinegar
  • 1/4 cup homemade or store-bought pickling spice
  • 20 fennel fronds
  • In a large jar or other airtight container, combine the white wine vinegar, pickling spice and fennel fronds. Add 1/2 cup of water, shake to combine, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Makes 20 fronds.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per frond: 40 calories (percent of calories from fat, 4), 1 gram protein, 9 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, trace total fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 61 milligrams sodium.

Recipes reprinted with permission from “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” by John Holl. Copyright 2022 by Princeton Architectural Press.

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Warm Farro, Mushroom and Romanesco Salad with Roasted Poblano Sauce. This recipe from Good Word Brewing in Duluth is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Warm Farro, Mushroom and Romanesco Salad with Roasted Poblano Sauce. This recipe from Good Word Brewing in Duluth is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

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Warm Farro, Mushroom and Romanesco Salad with Roasted Poblano Sauce. This recipe from Good Word Brewing in Duluth is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Credit: Jon Page

Warm Farro, Mushroom and Romanesco Salad with Poblano Sauce

Though it comes together quickly, this warm salad from the kitchen of Good Word Brewing & Public House in Duluth has a depth of flavor that will excite the taste buds. The pairing is an imperial stout, which might seem heavy, but the peppers complement the beer’s roast character.

Warm Farro, Mushroom and Romanesco Salad with Poblano Sauce
  • 2 cups farro
  • 1 cup oyster mushrooms, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 1 cup shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 1/2 head Romanesco cauliflower or regular cauliflower, cut into florets
  • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cups chopped kale
  • 2 cups chopped kale
  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
  • 2 cups baby arugula
  • 1 1/2 cups Roasted Poblano Sauce (recipe follows)
  • 1/2 cup breadcrumbs, toasted
  • 1/2 cup pickled onion, such as cocktail onions, sliced
  • Heat oven to 375 degrees.
  • Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to boil over medium heat. Add the farro and boil for 20-25 minutes, or until tender. Drain the farro then spread it on a baking sheet to cool.
  • Spread the mushrooms and cauliflower on a clean baking sheet, toss with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until tender.
  • When ready to serve, in a large saute pan over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the mushrooms and cauliflower and cook, stirring, just until warmed through. Add the farro and kale and cook, stirring, until the kale has started to wilt and the farro is warming up and starting to toast in the oil. Remove from the heat, add the vinegar, and stir to incorporate. Transfer to a large bowl, add the baby arugula and roasted poblano sauce, and toss to combine. Sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs and pickled onions and serve. Serves 4 to 6.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving, based on 4: 1,005 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 23 grams protein, 112 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams fiber, 53 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 843 milligrams sodium. Per serving, based on 4 (salad without poblano sauce): 528 calories (percent of calories from fat, 15), 17 grams protein, 94 grams carbohydrates, 14 grams fiber, 9 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 122 milligrams sodium.

Roasted Poblano Sauce
  • 2 fire-roasted poblano peppers, peeled and deseeded
  • 1 small bunch fresh cilantro leaves
  • 1 cup arugula, blanched
  • 1/3 cup pistachios, toasted
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to season
  • 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • In a food processor, combine the roasted poblanos, cilantro, arugula, pistachios, garlic, lime juice, white wine vinegar, salt, and 2 tablespoons water. Blend until fully combined. With the processor on, gradually add the olive oil, blending until fully incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per tablespoon: 84 calories (percent of calories from fat, 86), 1 gram protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 8 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 116 milligrams sodium.
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Spring Greens Salad with Lemon IPA Vinaigrette and Grilled Trout. This recipe from Sierra Nevada Brewing in Mills River, N.C., is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Spring Greens Salad with Lemon IPA Vinaigrette and Grilled Trout. This recipe from Sierra Nevada Brewing in Mills River, N.C., is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Combined ShapeCaption
Spring Greens Salad with Lemon IPA Vinaigrette and Grilled Trout. This recipe from Sierra Nevada Brewing in Mills River, N.C., is in “The Craft Brewery Cookbook: Recipes To Pair With Your Favorite Beers” (Princeton Architectural Press, $29.95). (Courtesy of Jon Page)

Credit: Jon Page

Credit: Jon Page

Spring Greens Salad with Lemon IPA Vinaigrette and Grilled Trout

Salads can be dressed up with protein in any number of ways, but adding freshly grilled trout brings delicious nutty flavor to the plate. The pairing for this recipe from Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in Mills River, North Carolina, is a Bavarian-style wheat beer, which just sings with the lemon in the vinaigrette.

Spring Greens Salad with Lemon IPA Vinaigrette and Grilled Trout
  • 12 ounces mixed spring greens
  • 1 cup blueberries
  • 2 peaches, halved and thinly sliced
  • Lemon IPA Vinaigrette, for dressing (recipe follows)
  • 4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
  • 1 cup toasted pecans
  • Grilled Trout (recipe follows)
  • In a medium bowl, combine the spring greens, blueberries and peaches, and toss to combine. Drizzle with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens and toss again. Transfer the salad to a plate, piling it into a tall mound. Top with the blue cheese, pecans and grilled trout. Serves 4.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving, with 2 tablespoons vinaigrette: 831 calories (percent of calories from fat, 65), 47 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 62 grams total fat (11 grams saturated), 123 milligrams cholesterol, 524 milligrams sodium.

Lemon IPA Vinaigrette
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 small shallot, minced
  • 1/2 cup honey
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 1/4 cup hazy IPA, such as Sierra Nevada Hazy Little Thing IPA
  • 1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, shallot, honey, lemon juice, IPA, mustard and salt and puree until well combined. With the blender or food processor on, gradually add the canola oil and olive oil, and continue to process until fully incorporated, being careful not to break the vinaigrette.
  • Makes 2 cups. Leftover dressing can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per tablespoon: 85 calories (percent of calories from fat, 74), trace protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 7 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 58 milligrams sodium.

Grilled Trout
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • 4 (6-ounce) skinless trout fillets
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Heat a grill or grill pan over high heat. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil and canola oil and rub all over each trout fillet to completely coat. Season with salt and pepper. Place the trout directly on the grill grates or in the grill pan and grill for 3 minutes, or until it starts to brown. Rotate the fillets slightly to create a diamond grill mark pattern and grill for 3 more minutes. Flip the fillets over and grill for 3 to 5 minutes, or until cooked through. Serves 4.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving: 366 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 36 grams protein, no carbohydrates, no fiber, 25 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), 102 milligrams cholesterol, 77 milligrams sodium.
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