Recipes: Fall for these hearty dishes paired with robust beers

Fall is the perfect time to match dishes with beers with darker, more robust styles. Shown here are Sausage and Root Vegetable Mash with Westmalle Trappist Ale from Brick Store Pub; Grilled Pork Loin and Coconut Porter from Cherry Street Brewing from Leon's Full Service; and Chocolate Lava Cake with Quantum Immortality porter from Good Word Brewing. Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Caption
Fall is the perfect time to match dishes with beers with darker, more robust styles. Shown here are Sausage and Root Vegetable Mash with Westmalle Trappist Ale from Brick Store Pub; Grilled Pork Loin and Coconut Porter from Cherry Street Brewing from Leon's Full Service; and Chocolate Lava Cake with Quantum Immortality porter from Good Word Brewing. Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Mia Yakel

Credit: Mia Yakel

Setting the clocks back, and watching the leaves turn as the temperatures drop, means it’s time for some heartier food and drink.

For anyone who loves beer, that means darker, more robust styles, such as English porter and stout, and Belgian dubbel and quad, paired with dishes that feature seasonal flavors.

With that in mind, I asked chefs at three beer-oriented metro Atlanta restaurants to share a recipe for a dish to make this fall, along with a beer to drink with it.

On his fall menu, Brick Store Pub executive chef Eric Ottensmeyer has been making a Belgian-inspired root vegetable dish he calls Sausage and Mash.

“It’s kind of a Belgian peasant dish called stoemp,” Ottensmeyer said. “And it’s kind of a ‘clear out the root cellar’ farmer’s dish, so you could use any number of things in it. The first one we did was with celery root, but parsnips brought out a lot more floral flavors and went well with the carrots.”

Ottensmeyer serves the mash topped with a large link of the Whole-Hog Sausage from Pine Street Market in Decatur.

“It’s a classic smoky sausage, and the mash has a little sweetness from the parsnips and carrots,” Ottensmeyer said. “We added some horseradish to the mash, which gives it a little more punch, and just made it come together. The garnish for the dish is pickled mustard seeds.”

For the pairing, Ottensmeyer and the Brick Store team tried a lineup of Belgian beers, tasting from the lightest to the darkest, before landing on Westmalle Dubbel — a dark reddish-brown Trappist ale with complex malty and fruity notes.

“In our tasting, it was kind of in the middle,” Ottensmeyer said. “We thought that really made the dish sing.”

These chefs from three beer-oriented metro Atlanta restaurants came up with fall dishes and beers to match: executive chef Brian Crain from Good Word Brewing, executive chef Jeff Sellers from Leon's Full Service, and executive chef Eric Ottensmeyer from Brick Store Pub. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)
Caption
These chefs from three beer-oriented metro Atlanta restaurants came up with fall dishes and beers to match: executive chef Brian Crain from Good Word Brewing, executive chef Jeff Sellers from Leon's Full Service, and executive chef Eric Ottensmeyer from Brick Store Pub. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Mia Yakel

Credit: Mia Yakel

Jeff Sellers is the executive chef at Leon’s Full Service, where he’s making what he calls “classic American food” with seasonal produce and proteins from local farms.

Recently, Sellers created a pork loin dish with sweet potato puree, roasted turnips and red cabbage, bok choy, and a pistachio cranberry crumble.

The pairing for the pork is a rich amber Coconut Porter from Cherry Street Brewing in Cumming. It’s served on nitrogen at Leon’s, which creates a creamy carbonation, with notes of bittersweet chocolate.

Brian Crain is the executive chef at Good Word Brewing and Public House in Duluth, where he oversees a menu pitched to the beers made on-premises by brewer Todd DiMatteo.

“We always want to have dishes on the menu that are going to pair well with beer,” Crain said. “We make a lot of English-style beers, so we try to do some approachable things, because people come to a brewpub and expect that.

“But we try to put as much technique and thought behind it as we can. And we try to get as much local and farm-fresh seasonal vegetables as we can.”

With that, though, Crain offered up a decadent Chocolate Lava Cake as his fall feature dish.

“We paired it with an English-style porter called Quantum Immortality,” Crain said. “It’s only 4%, so it’s kind of a light-bodied porter. We did the Lava Cake with espresso whipped cream and candied walnuts. It’s something that rounds the beer out with a little creaminess. But chocolate and darker beers are a pretty standard pairing.”

RECIPES

These dishes from three Atlanta chefs explore the flavors of fall, pairing food and beer for the season.

Brick Store Pub Root Vegetable Mash with sausage and pickled mustard seeds, paired with Westmalle Trappist Ale, can be made with any kind of sausage. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)
Caption
Brick Store Pub Root Vegetable Mash with sausage and pickled mustard seeds, paired with Westmalle Trappist Ale, can be made with any kind of sausage. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Mia Yakel

Credit: Mia Yakel

Root Vegetable Mash (Stoemp)

Eric Ottensmeyer, the executive chef of Brick Store Pub, pairs this elemental root vegetable dish with a hefty local pork sausage topped with pickled mustard seeds. But you can use any type of sausage you like, including vegetarian sausage.

Root Vegetable Mash (Stoemp)
  • 1 tablespoon oil, such as canola
  • 1 leek, halved, rinsed well and sliced
  • 1 cup saison beer
  • 2 cups carrots, peeled, halved and sliced medium thick
  • 2 cups parsnips, peeled, halved and sliced medium thick
  • Cold water
  • 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled, chunked and held in cold water
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
  • 1/4 cup prepared horseradish
  • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
  • In a heavy-bottomed pot, add oil and saute leeks until tender.
  • Add the saison beer to deglaze the pan. Simmer to reduce for a few minutes.
  • Add carrots, parsnips and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil. Cook until vegetables are slightly tender.
  • Add potatoes and additional cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook until all vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
  • In a separate saucepan, while the vegetables cook, gently warm the milk and butter.
  • Drain cooked vegetables completely in a colander, and transfer back to the sauce pot. Mash with potato masher to desired texture.
  • Fold in sour cream and horseradish, then fold in milk-butter mixture.
  • Season with kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste.
  • Serve the mash with grilled sausage of your choice and garnish with pickled mustard seeds (recipe follows). Serves 4.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving: 505 calories (percent of calories from fat, 56), 7 grams protein, 49 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fiber, 31 grams total fat (17 grams saturated), 74 milligrams cholesterol, 338 milligrams sodium.

Pickled Mustard Seeds
  • 1/2 cup whole yellow mustard seeds
  • 1/2 cup whole brown mustard seeds
  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 3/4 cup brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • Place all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until mustard seeds reach desired consistency (similar texture to whole-grain mustard). Let cool. Serve at room temperature. Makes 2 cups.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per tablespoon: 29 calories (percent of calories from fat, 33), 1 gram protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 1 gram total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 182 milligrams sodium.
Leon's Full Service Pork Loin With Sweet Potato Puree, Roasted Vegetables and Pistachio Cranberry Crumble is paired with Coconut Porter from Cherry Street Brewing. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)
Caption
Leon's Full Service Pork Loin With Sweet Potato Puree, Roasted Vegetables and Pistachio Cranberry Crumble is paired with Coconut Porter from Cherry Street Brewing. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Mia Yakel

Credit: Mia Yakel

Pork Loin With Sweet Potato Puree, Roasted Vegetables and Pistachio Cranberry Crumble

Jeff Sellers, the executive chef at Leon’s Full Service, adds a lot of flavorful touches to this brined pork loin recipe. You can roast the pork in the oven or grill it. Either way, it’s a decadent fall dish.

Pork Loin With Sweet Potato Puree, Roasted Vegetables and Pistachio Cranberry Crumble
  • 1 quart water
  • 1/2 cup salt, plus more for seasoning
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 5 garlic cloves, divided
  • 2 whole allspice
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 pounds pork loin
  • 2 pounds of sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
  • 1/2 yellow onion
  • 1 quart heavy cream
  • 1 quart vegetable stock
  • Black pepper, to taste
  • 2 turnips, quartered
  • 1/2 head red cabbage, cut into small chunks
  • Neutral oil, such as canola oil
  • 1/4 cup pistachios
  • 1/4 cup dried cranberries
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 head of bok choy or baby bok choy, cut into chunks
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • Brine the pork: In a sauce pot, combine water, salt, sugar, 2 garlic cloves, allspice, cinnamon stick and bay leaves and bring to boil. Do not reduce. Take off heat and cool. While the brine cools, cut the pork into 5-ounce portions. You will get better portion sizes if you cut the pork loin longways first, then cut into portions. Place the pork portions in a large container, pour the cooled brine over the pork, cover and leave in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
  • Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Remove pork from the refrigerator, and pat dry.
  • In a large sauce pot over medium heat, add sweet potatoes, onion, remaining 3 garlic cloves, heavy cream and vegetable stock. Simmer until vegetables are soft. Let them cool a little bit, then puree in a blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
  • On a sheet pan, toss the turnips and cabbage in oil, salt and pepper and roast in oven at 450 degrees for about 7 minutes. Let cool.
  • In a food processor, pulse together pistachios and cranberries and set aside for garnish.
  • On a sheet pan, roast pork loin in the oven for about 10 minutes, then let rest for 3 minutes.
  • While resting the pork, heat a saute pan on high, add roasted turnips and cabbage and glaze with butter. Add bok choy and white wine. Cook wine out, remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.
  • To serve: Plate the sweet potato puree, then add the vegetables. Slice the pork loin and place on top. Garnish with the pistachio cranberry crumble. Serves 4.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving: 1,326 calories (percent of calories from fat, 70), 58 grams protein, 42 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 104 grams total fat (60 grams saturated), 425 milligrams cholesterol, 1,820 milligrams sodium.
Good Word Brewing Chocolate Lava Cake with Espresso Whipped Cream and Candied Walnuts is paired with Quantum Immortality English-Style Porter. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)
Caption
Good Word Brewing Chocolate Lava Cake with Espresso Whipped Cream and Candied Walnuts is paired with Quantum Immortality English-Style Porter. (Mia Yakel for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Mia Yakel

Credit: Mia Yakel

Chocolate Lava Cake With Espresso Whipped Cream and Candied Walnuts

Brian Crain, the executive chef of Good Word Brewing and Public House, created this gooey chocolate treat to go with the brewery’s English porters. And cheers, each cake is enough for two.

Chocolate Lava Cake With Espresso Whipped Cream and Candied Walnuts
  • For the cake:
  • 3 whole eggs
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 1/2 cup bittersweet chocolate
  • 1/4 cup flour
  • 1 teaspoon cocoa powder
  • 1 tablespoon milk
  • For the whipped cream:
  • 8 ounces heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons strong coffee or espresso
  • 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
  • 1 dash vanilla extract
  • For the walnuts:
  • 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1/2 cup toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
  • For the cake: In a stand mixer or with a hand mixer, cream eggs and sugar together until pale yellow and sugar is incorporated.
  • Over a double boiler, melt butter and chocolate.
  • Let chocolate mix cool slightly, then add to the mixing bowl with eggs and sugar. Mix on medium speed until fully incorporated.
  • Sift flour and cocoa powder into the mixing bowl. Mix on medium speed until flour is incorporated and then add milk.
  • Heat oven to 375 degrees.
  • Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 2 (4-inch) cake molds on the baking sheet and use cooking spray to coat the inside of the mold. Pour 1/2 of batter into each mold and smooth out toward the edges. Bake at 375 degrees for 7 minutes until cake has just begun to rise and form a crust on top. Do not overcook or you will lose the runny interior.
  • Let rest for 5 minutes then carefully remove the molds from around the cakes and use a wide spatula to transfer to 2 plates. Top with whipped cream and walnuts and serve warm.
  • For the whipped cream: Put a metal mixing bowl in the freezer until extremely cold. Add heavy cream, espresso, powdered sugar and vanilla, and whisk until stiff peaks are formed.
  • For the walnuts: In a small saucepan over medium heat, add sugar, honey, water and salt.
  • Once the sugar has dissolved and mixture begins to bubble around the edges, add the chopped walnuts. Toss the walnuts in the sugar mixture to coat and remove from heat. Put walnuts on a sprayed nonstick baking sheet or one lined with a silicone mat and bake at 325 degrees for 7 minutes. This can be done ahead of time. Makes 2 cakes (serves 4).

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving: 977 calories (percent of calories from fat, 67), 16 grams protein, 65 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fiber, 75 grams total fat (36 grams saturated), 250 milligrams cholesterol, 438 milligrams sodium.
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