I recently found a vintage New York Times recipe by Jacques Pépin. Fromage fort (the t is silent) spins leftover cheese into a spread served with crackers as an appetizer or melted over crusty bread for a heartier treat. I was curious – which combination of cheeses makes the very best fromage fort?
My cheese drawer offered a collection of cheddar for macaroni and cheese, fontina for pasta, Gorgonzola for salads and a few random wedges rescued from a friend’s charcuterie board. After delicious trial and error, I found cheddar, fontina and boursin, whipped together in the food processor, makes a lovely potted cheese.
Credit: Kellie Hynes
Credit: Kellie Hynes
But the spirit of fromage fort is to use whatever you have on hand, and I really wanted a recipe that works with any available cheese. And so I offer you this mantra to guide your own fromage fun: soft, sharp, stinky, tart. Use at least one ingredient from each category to curate a balanced mixture.
Soft: For a decadent texture, think fontina, havarti, burrata or Neufchatel. A splash of heavy whipping cream is a decent substitute. Surprisingly, brie and chevre do not fall into this category.
Sharp: Always add cheddar. Savory, subtle, ubiquitous.
Stinky: A little blue will do. Also brie and chevre. All have strong flavors that influence the entire dish. Minced garlic or fresh chives are good alternatives.
Tart: Not a cheese. A splash of something bright that balances the fatty flavor. Sauvignon blanc is your go-to here. Port pairs best with Gorgonzola. Lemon juice is a sober substitute, as is vegetable broth.
The four ingredients recommended in the recipe make an approachable, flavorful introduction to fromage fort and bubble beautifully when melted. If you are able, do as the ancestors did and throw multiple cheeses from each category into the mix. (Skip the slices of American, which do not blend and will add speckles of orange confetti throughout.) The results are complex, comforting and new every time.
Credit: Kellie Hynes
Credit: Kellie Hynes
— Adapted from a recipe by Jacques Pépin.
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