Cookbook review: A world of wonderful (wheat-less) meal options

‘The Gluten-Free Cookbook’ by Cristian Broglia (Phaidon, $49.95)
"The Gluten-Free Cookbook" by Cristian Broglia (Phaidon, $49.95).

Credit: Handout

Credit: Handout

"The Gluten-Free Cookbook" by Cristian Broglia (Phaidon, $49.95).

The supermarket is chock-full of products specially formulated for people whose bodies don’t react well to gluten. That protein, found in cereals such as wheat, barley and rye, is responsible for the stretchy, chewy qualities of breads and pasta. Many cookbooks offer innovative ways to make brownies with black beans, pizza crust with cauliflower, and breads and pastries using things like ground nuts and tapioca starch.

The Gluten-Free Cookbook” by Cristian Broglia (Phaidon, $49.95) is not one of them. Rather, its aim is to showcase the variety of dishes around the world that are naturally gluten-free, often originating in regions where wheat doesn’t grow well.

During his years as executive chef of Alma, the International School of Italian Cuisine in his native Parma, Italy, Broglia traveled extensively through other countries, learning new flavors and experimenting with them back home. He has helped Italian and international food brands develop vegan and gluten-free cuisine, and currently produces meals for the food service industry in a private kitchen.

In writing this hefty 350-recipe volume, however, he did not set out to promote his own original creations, but rather curate and fine-tune traditional recipes collected from his travels and research requiring no dietary modification. That excludes pasta and pizza.

What you’ll find instead is a wildly eclectic mix of familiar classics such as Shrimp Pad Thai, Cajun Dirty Rice, and Baked Alaska along with recipes you’ve likely never heard of: Paraguayan Cheese Bread, Okra Fish Stew with Rice from Senegal, and Honeycomb Toffee from New Zealand, to name a few.

Recipes are uncomplicated, with preparation and cooking times given for each, along with symbols signifying other dietary restrictions such as vegan and dairy-free. Each lists its country of origin and provides interesting descriptions of its heritage and helpful descriptions of its process and outcome. Some contain ingredients that may require a search, such as makrut lime leaves and poha (flattened rice), but that’s part of the education — and fun. Even if you’re not on a restricted diet, “The Gluten-Free Cookbook” is packed with inspiration to free you from mealtime boredom.

Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.

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