Bruce Logue and his team at BoccaLupo have a way with ingredients, skillfully merging seasonal Southern produce with traditional Italian fresh pasta. There is no pinpointing a star element in the truffle gnocchi, as everything shines, and yet works together.
Buttery kernels of sweet corn and light, pillowy hand-rolled gnocchi are the hearty base of the dish. Ruffled sprigs of endive frisée not only add lacy green beauty, but a bitter crunch to the soft chew of the puffs of potato. Velvety burgundy ribbons of Pine Street Market bresaola are lean and tender, with notes of the herbs (sage, thyme, rosemary) used in the three-month cave-curing process. It pairs well with a sprinkling of savory-sweet Parmesan.
The dish is finished with shavings of black summer truffle, staying as true as possible to the subtle, aromatic flavor. The added dimension adorns — both tastewise and visually — rather than overpowering, teasing earthy notes with delicate enhancement.
BoccaLupo. 753 Edgewood Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-577-2332, boccalupoatl.com
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