Visit the Italian coast via Midtown with this dish

Sunshine streamed through the airy dining room of Alici, where our table was covered by spent oyster shells, my pal’s Italian Pilsner and my glass of Fiano. Happy hour at this oyster bar is a taste trip to the Italian coast.

The crispy edges of our wild mushroom socca glistened under a pile of wild mushrooms and fresh herbs. A socca is a thin, unleavened pancake, and Alici has a menu of four kinds of the Italian delight. All are gluten-free, as they are made with chickpea flour.

Foriana, an Italian nut and raisin sauce, anchors the base, with brown-capped wild mushrooms bringing both woodsy aroma and sweet nuttiness. Squarish pieces of provolone mingle with dill, parsley and tarragon. At first, it is warm and savory, but then the brightness of lemon vinaigrette hits. You can get a different taste combination in each bite.