Maria Fundora stood near the entrance to Casa Nuova, double-checking a to-go order. Around the corner sat her husband, Antonio. Clad in chef whites and cradling an espresso cup, he had paused from kitchen duties to catch up with a friend. All three Fundora kids — Alex, Cari and Jose, who goes by Pepe — were there to lend a hand on what looked to be a busy Friday night.
Family-owned restaurants often are a special class of eatery. Owners and patrons watch one another’s children grow up, get married and have children of their own. They inquire about grandchildren and aging parents.
Casa Nuova is that kind of family-run restaurant.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Antonio Fundora’s restaurant roots in Atlanta date back to the mid-1970s, and the opening of the now-defunct Alfredo’s on Cheshire Bridge Road. He and Maria went on to open other restaurants, including multiple locations of Italian restaurant Avanti’s, plus Toni’s Casa Napoli and Antonio’s Bakery.
With the 1996 sale of the Avanti’s in Buckhead, the couple thought they were through with restaurant life. A mere two years later, they were stirring pots of pomodoro and pasta at Casa Nuova, just two blocks from their home in Alpharetta.
“We thought we wanted to get out of the industry. Having restaurant blood ... draws you back,” said Maria, who grew up in Chicago, the daughter of a restaurateur.
“We wanted to open a place similar to our flagship, Alfredo’s: small space, seating under 100, intimate service,” she added.
Credit: Raluca Rodila
Credit: Raluca Rodila
They also sought to replicate the old-school food. “Our menu is the exact menu that Alfredo’s used to have,” Maria said, calling the fare “down-to-earth Italian soul food.”
Casa Nuova boasts a selection of veal, but the lasagna easily is the bestseller. Antonio had been busy that morning, putting his pastry skills to work, rolling cannoli and baking oversized chocolate chunk cookies before cooking up a hearty ribollita as the daily soup offering.
In the early days of the pandemic, the Fundoras introduced take-and-bake meals as part of the to-go menu. A year later, orders for trays of lasagna or chicken francese continue to be popular with the carryout crowd. And, for good reason: They are aggressively priced ($60 for a half-tray that feeds up to six, $120 for a full tray that feeds up to 12), and come with garlic bread and a salad.
Maria thinks take-and-bake is here to stay, even when the pandemic goes away, as well as to-go wine. “It has become part of our signature.”
She was quick to give the vino credit to son Pepe, who is studying for his level three sommelier exam. “He has taken our wine program to another level,” his proud mother said.
It’s Pepe who has arranged the restaurant’s wine dinners — now conducted virtually — which feature highly respected winemakers, a four-course meal and three bottles of wine, all for $129 per couple. Pepe also plays a role in the newest family business: Cork and Glass, a wine shop in the adjacent storefront, which debuted last July.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
“COVID has been horrible, but, as a family, it has really brought us closer today,” Maria said.
Keeping themselves, their employees and their guests safe has been a top priority for the family. A sign painted on the wall near the entrance lists the restaurant’s COVID-19 protocols, as well as expectations of guests. Plexiglass separates the tops of booths from one another. The patio has been spruced up, and a few more tables added to accommodate the increased demand for outdoor dining.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Inside, capacity is limited to 50%. “We’d love to open at full capacity, but don’t feel we’re at a place with COVID yet that we can do that safely,” Maria said. “It’s really sad for me, personally, how many people we have lost as guests. The guests over the years have become part of our extended family. Watching some of them die to COVID, the families be impacted — it’s very difficult.”
Family-owned restaurants like Casa Nuova are, indeed, a special class of eatery.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
CASA NUOVA
Menu: Italian
Alcohol: full bar on premises; wine to go
What I ordered: zuppa del giorno (Tuscan white bean); lasagna al forna; veal Parmigiana; pescatore fra diavolo. The lasagna was a classic Bolognese: a balance of tender noodles, hearty beef ragu and creamy bechamel. The pescatore — clams, mussels, scallops and shrimp tossed with linguine in a medium-spiced fra diavolo sauce — easily feeds two. Casa Nuova’s portions are generous, but pastries were set up on the to-go table and a free one was given to each customer as a parting thank you. Besides freshly baked chocolate chunk cookies, powder sugar-dusted cannoli and fruit-filled pastries, Maria Fundora also tossed in a warm loaf of garlic bread and a pint of tomato bisque with a beautiful oregano accent.
Price range: starters, $6.95-12.50; entrees, $14.95-29.95; dessert, $7.95
Service options: dine-in or carryout, including curbside; no delivery; order online, in person or via phone; online menu slightly abbreviated
Outdoor dining: patio
Mask policy: required for all employees; highly encouraged for customers
Address, phone: 5670 Atlanta Highway, Alpharetta; 770-475-9100
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays
Website: casanuovarestaurant.com
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