Fresh, natural, authentic, hand-crafted, made with ancient grains, and high in protein. These and many more buzzwords related to better eating were trending big time at the National Restaurant Association’s annual trade show held in Chicago.
“It’s OK to say the ‘h’ word now,” observes Cynthia Harriman, director of food and nutrition strategies for the Whole Grains Council.
Harriman spoke at one of the educational sessions focused on nutrition and healthy living. While whole grains used to be minority players on menus, Harriman says they’re center stage now. “It may surprise folks to know that 45 percent of the rice ordered at P.F. Chang’s China Bistro is the brown rice.”
Registered dietitian Cheryl Dolven, director of health and wellness for the Darden Restaurants, says, “We have to change what’s in our pantry to change what’s on the plate. Our customers are asking for healthier items. At Darden, we’re lowering calories and sodium and enhancing children’s menus with more vegetables.”
So, joining the big bowls of pasta at Darden’s Olive Garden chain are dishes such as Chicken Abruzzi made with cannellini beans and kale.
More and more options
The National Restaurant Association exhibit hall showcased products operators need to address special dietary needs including gluten-free, allergy-friendly, vegetarian and vegan options. Steve Schimoler, chef and owner of Crop Bistro & Bar in Cleveland, says, “It’s not unusual for a table of six guests to announce that one can’t have raw onions, one has another allergy and one is a vegan.”
Schimoler is a member of the Research Chefs Association; specialists in product development that meets specifications such as lower in sodium and sugar without sacrificing appeal. Dolven says, “We’ve got to show people that healthy foods can taste great.”
Combing the exhibits, I spotted sweet potato wraps, parsnip fries, Greek yogurt sold for savory recipes, meatless”meats” such as a sprouted quinoa chia burger and a range of chicken, fish and meat substitutes from Gardein made with quinoa and other grains. A fishless fish fillet? “Protein is a big nutrition trend,” says registered dietitian Janet Helm, author of the blog “Nutrition Unplugged.” “People want a variety of vegetable-based proteins even if they’re not vegetarian or vegan.”
But it’s not always easy catering to the health-conscious consumer. They may be into Meatless Mondays one week and craving steaks on the Paleo Diet the next. Gluten-free was everywhere at the National Restaurant Association show, but so was attention to artisanal breads.
Michael Jacobson, executive director of the Center for Science in the Public Interest, is a longtime critic of the restaurant industry’s lack of nutrition focus. Still, he told attendees, “I think things are moving in the right direction very slowly.” Years ago, Jacobson dubbed fettuccine Alfredo “heart attack on a plate” and continues to call for change, “Restaurants have got to cut the salt and add more fruits and vegetables.”
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