Some farmers do it because it’s been a family business for generations. Some farm because they wanted a change from corporate and/or city life. And some farmers, such as Brad Nersesian of Sacred Ground Farms in Bowdon, are in it because they have a mission.
Nersesian went to college for a horticulture degree, but his college coursework in permaculture shifted his focus from landscaping to farming. He now farms about 8 acres of a 20-acre property in this small Carroll County community. The rest of the property contains woods and pasture for free-range goats and chickens.
“I didn’t have the funds to buy land but through friends met someone who provided this opportunity. Until you start farming you have no idea what it really is. I ended up working for this guy and after working together for six or seven months, it was time for me to step up to the plate.”
Farming has given him the chance to test his ideas and permaculture theories. “A lot permaculture is more of ideas than examples,” Nersesian said. “What I’m trying to do on the farm is to create practical examples of what can be implemented on any farm. I hope others will see the practicality of these ideas and make the shift to it.”
He’s had his share of setbacks but also successes. “I had a lot of losses in the beginning. The bug population was way out of balance. That first year, I lost almost all my cauliflower and broccoli to caterpillars and slugs even though I spent countless hours picking them off hundreds of plants. This year, I’ve had hardly any damage of caterpillars and when I see caterpillars, they’ve had eggs laid on them by the parasitic wasps. I’m really seeing the beneficial insect population grow. They’re coming back in abundance and that means the land is coming back into balance.”
The learning and testing process is all part of what motivates Nersesian to keep farming. That and his goal of growing enough food to be able to provide it free for people in need. And there’s his long-term goal of sharing what he learns worldwide. “I hope to go to places where we can help create food systems that will thrive for generations.”
While he’s working on that goal, he’s growing a range of vegetables and selling them at the Saturday morning Peachtree City Farmers Market and to chef Brian So at Spring restaurant in Marietta.
For winter, he’s growing cauliflower in a range of colors, broccoli, kohlrabi, lettuce, arugula, kale, onions and cabbage among other crops. He’s also growing Brussels sprouts, which provides him with a good return on the investment he makes in space and management. “It’s a good crop for winter and doesn’t have too many problems. You can harvest the sprouts over a long period of time and you get a lot of sprouts from a little bit of land.”
The weather this season has been tough with so much dry weather and a mild winter, then a rapid shift to wet weather and temperatures in the 30s. “The consistent wet weather presents more problems with disease and insects,” Nersesian said. “I go through the plants and pick off any leaves that are turning yellow or starting to die. Those leaves are pulling energy from the plants.”
Nersesian starts his Brussels sprouts in a hoop house growing his plants from seed. The seedlings move outside when they have two or three true leaves and once they’re acclimated, they’re transplanted into the ground. Of the 600 plants he seeded in June and July, he estimates he has 400 to 450 left. He started harvesting sprouts in late November and expects to have them available to his customers into February.
And as for those customers, they love his Brussels sprouts. “Everybody who’s gotten them loves them. They tell me they’re better than what they get at the grocery and that’s because I don’t let the sprouts get big and bitter. These are so sweet that I don’t even cook them. Just chop them up and put them on salads.”
Perhaps the comments he likes hearing most are the ones where his customers tell him they buy his vegetables because he doesn’t use pesticides of any sort. “They tell me they’re OK with a little bug damage because they know they’re getting something that’s high quality and not toxic to their bodies.”
Brussels Sprouts ‘Bhel’ with Tamarind Dressing and Yogurt Sauce
Executive chef Bhavesh Patel of Inman Quarter’s Amara created this take on traditional Indian street food. At the restaurant, it’s plated with a smear of sweet potato puree. If you wish to use canned garbanzo beans instead of cooking your own from dried beans, use 1/2 cup rinsed and drained canned beans.
4 cups water, divided
1/4 cup dried garbanzo beans
1/2 cup small diced sweet potato (about 1 3-ounce potato)
2 cups Brussels sprouts (about 6 ounces)
Vegetable oil, for frying
1/2 cup small diced tomato (about 1 small Roma tomato)
1/2 cup small diced red onion
Tamarind Vinaigrette (see recipe)
Salt
Yogurt Sauce (see recipe)
In a small bowl, combine 2 cups water and garbanzo beans and soak for 3 hours. Drain beans and put into a small saucepan. Add remaining 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Cook until beans are tender. Using a slotted spot, remove beans from liquid nad put into colander. Do not drain the saucepan.
Add diced sweet potatoes to remaining liquid in the saucepan and boil. Cook until tender, then drain and set aside.
While beans and sweet potatoes are cooking, cook Brussels sprouts. Trim ends from sprouts and separate outer leaves. Quarter remaining sprouts. In a large skillet, heat 1/2 inch oil over medium-high heat. Add outer leaves and fry until crisp. Set aside to garnish dish. Add remaining quartered sprouts and fry until tender. Drain and allow to cool.
In a medium bowl, combine quartered sprouts, reserved garbanzo beans, cooked sweet potatoes, tomatoes and red onion. Add Tamarind Vinaigrette to taste. Taste for seasoning. Divide vegetables between four serving plates and garnish with fried outer leaves. Drizzle with Yogurt Sauce and serve immediately. Serves: 4
Per serving: 295 calories (percent of calories from fat, 55), 8 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams fiber, 19 grams fat (2 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 19 milligrams sodium.
Tamarind Vinaigrette
This vinaigrette is fruity, sweet and hot. Leftover vinaigrette would be delicious on grilled chicken or pork tenderloin as well as with other salads. Tamarind paste and black salt are available at stores that sell Indian groceries.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium clove garlic, sliced
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
6 medium pitted dates, chopped
4 teaspoons tamarind paste
1 teaspoon cayenne
1/2-inch piece ginger, lightly chopped
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black salt
In a small saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat and cook garlic until golden. Add water, brown sugar, vinegar, dates, tamarind paste, cayenne, ginger, kosher salt and black salt and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the liquid reduces down a quarter. Remove from heat and puree in a blender or with an immersion blender. Strain mixture and allow to cool. Makes: 3/4 cup
Per 1-tablespoon serving: 70 calories (percent of calories from fat, 15), trace protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 1 gram fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 94 milligrams sodium.
Yogurt Sauce
1/2 cup plain non-fat yogurt
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
In a small bowl, whisk yogurt and sugar together. Keep refrigerated until ready to use. Makes: 1/2 cup
Per 1-tablespoon serving: 13 calories (percent of calories from fat, 2), 1 gram protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, trace fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 11 milligrams sodium.
FOR SALE AT LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS
Vegetables and nuts: arugula, Asian greens, beets, broccoli, broccoli raab, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, cornmeal, endive, escarole, fennel, frisee, grits, green onions, herbs, kale, kalette, leeks, lettuce, microgreens, mushrooms, mustard greens, pecans, polenta, radicchio, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, sweet potatoes, turnips, winter squash
— From local reports
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