Where to find the best Eastern and Central European food in metro Atlanta

Cabbage tart from Esto Etno (Ligaya Figueras/ligaya.figueras@ajc.com)

Credit: Ligaya Figueras

Credit: Ligaya Figueras

Cabbage tart from Esto Etno (Ligaya Figueras/ligaya.figueras@ajc.com)

Although metropolitan Atlanta is rich in international foods, Eastern European cooking might not be the first cuisine that comes to mind. Fortunately, metro Atlanta’s selection of Polish, Baltic and Balkan fare has expanded, particularly on the pop-up circuit. Here’s where to find the best Eastern and Central European food in the metro area.

Bigos, a Polish hunter’s stew of roasted cabbage, dried plum, lion’s mane mushroom and kielbasa, is a rotating dish from Polish pop-up Brave Wojtek. (Photo by Eugene Buchko)

Credit: Eugene Buchko

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Credit: Eugene Buchko

Brave Wojtek

Matt Reeves has been serving Polish and Eastern European food through his pop-up, Brave Wojtek, since late 2021. He’s best known for such items as Slavic “pimento” cheese, made with garlic and radicchio; frytki dziwinkle fries topped with creme fraiche, Porter beer cheese, kielbasa and pork farm ajvar (bell pepper and eggplant sauce); and dill, chicken or lamb kabab sandwiches on Bosnian pita, with ajvar, spicy garlic sauce and fresh roasted veggies.

@bravewojtek on Instagram for updates on future pop-ups

Baltic Deli's stuffed chicken with diced yellow pepper, dill and sheep's milk cheese is served with Polish slaw and mashed potatoes. (Sarra Sedghi for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Sarra Sedghi

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Credit: Sarra Sedghi

Baltic Deli

Roswell is the nexus of metro Atlanta’s Eastern European population, so it makes sense that Baltic Deli, one of the area’s newest Polish establishments, opened on Old Alabama Road in late 2023. Customers are greeted by a moderate selection of shelf-stable goods, including tinned fish, jams, chocolates, other candies and, of course, multiple shelves stacked with various pickles. Toward the back, there’s a butcher counter stocked with fresh cuts, sausages, kielbasa from Chicago and a few charcuterie items, such as Hungarian Black Kassel salami. Baltic Deli recently started serving hot lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Offerings include croquettes served with a cup of herby borscht for dipping, schnitzel and stuffed chicken with dill, peppers and sheep’s milk cheese.

1530 Old Alabama Road, Roswell. 770-750-5602, facebook.com/p/Baltic-Deli-61558192761979

Beksa Lala

Basia Piechoczek’s Polish pop-up, named after her childhood moniker (“beksa lala” translates to “crybaby”) is the most recent addition to the metro area’s Eastern European food scene. Piechoczek makes a point of including lighter options, such as the power bowl, in addition to such hearty Polish staples as kielbasa, pierogi and gołąbki (cabbage rolls filled with minced pork or beef, onions and rice). Beksa Lala is at Burle’s Friday and Saturday nights, and occasionally appears at Boggs Social & Supply for brunch. At the latter, try the bloody Marysia; a sausage plate with eggs, potatoes and mustard served with a shot of buttermilk; or the chocolate babka French toast.

@beksa_atl on Instagram for more information

EstoEtno Fine Bakery

Tiina D’Souza debuted her Estonian bakery at the Alpharetta Farmers Market in 2017. Since then, her farmers market circuit has expanded to Avondale Estates, Grant Park and the Green Market at Piedmont Park, and she also offers scheduled pickups and orders through her online store. EstoEtno is best-known for ultra-moist rye breads and no-nonsense pastries. The morning buns, for example, get their sweet notes from prunes, while the moisture in the berry cheesecake bars is from sour cream. The savory cabbage tart, made with sour cream, cottage cheese, onion and eggs, is a perennial favorite.

estoetno.com

Grand Polish Bakery's pączki are doughnuts filled with Bavarian cream. (Courtesy of Grand Polish Bakery)

Credit: Handout

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Credit: Handout

Grand Polish Bakery

This bakery offers a solid selection of sweet rolls, pączki (doughnuts filled with cream or jam), and fine pastries, as well as such Polish desserts as kremówka (a cake with custard stuffed between two layers of puff pastry), faworki (“angel wings” made from deep-fried ribbons of dough and dusted with powdered sugar) and nut rolls. The family-run operation includes a sizable grocery, with multiple brands of Polish essentials and a catering service. On Mondays and Tuesdays, the bakery offers takeaway lunch (think gołąbki with a pickle and dense bread) for $7.99.

439 W. Pike St., Lawrenceville. 770-277-3377, grandpolishbakery.com

Krupana

Adi Komic’s Bosnian pop-up started in 2020, and since has appeared at Monday Night Garage, Boggs Social & Supply, the Bookhouse Pub and, most recently, Punk Foodie’s now-defunct Ponce City Market stall. Highlights include burek, which are phyllo dough pies stuffed with meat (although he’s made vegan burek before), ćevapi (beef sausages), lepinja flatbread, kajmak (a soft Bosnian cheese served with a red pepper and eggplant sauce, as well as sauteed onions) and Bosnian-inspired sandwiches, such as a pljeskavica burger. You can catch Krupana at Elsewhere Brewing in Grant Park Mondays in June.

@krupana_atl on Instagram for future pop-ups

Mega European Bakery

This bakery specializes in Bosnian breads and other baked goods, including pita, poppy seed rolls, doughnuts, strawberry cheese croissants and doner kebab sandwiches.

1190 Five Forks Trickum Road SW, Lawrenceville. 770-962-7385, megabakery.us

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