Leslie Cohen and Shaun Whitmer don’t hide the fact that they are, as Whitmer put it, “two gringos opening a Latin restaurant.” In fact, they openly flaunt it.
And by the looks of a full house at 6 p.m. (on a Wednesday, no less), nobody minds.
Their flamboyant spot, Birdcage, is located in Grant Park, adjacent to Cohen’s Firepit Pizza Tavern, whose kitchen Whitmer has run since its debut six years ago.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Open since late January, Birdcage is named for the 1996 film comedy starring Robin Williams and Nathan Lane, who portrayed a gay couple that owned a drag bar in Florida’s South Beach. Guests here are transported to ‘90s Miami with bold neon pink signage, pink feather chandeliers, bird cages, bird wallpaper, mauve bar stools, plush butter yellow chairs and cobalt blue banquettes. It has the feel of a queer-friendly neighborhood diner.
The food and drink strive to match the playful energy of the 90-seat space. A concise menu of starters, grilled items, soups and salads — nearly all shareable — accentuates Latin flavors without being tied to a specific region.
Particularly noteworthy is the quantity of vegetarian and gluten-free offerings. Apart from a recommended white chicken pozole dressed up with crunchy tortilla strips, every soup and salad is prepared without meat, unless you opt for add-ons.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Vegetarian appetizers, such as sweet potato bravas, sofrito squash and black bean croquettes, were not just delicious meatless bites, but also demonstrated technique.
Inspired by Spanish papas bravas, the sweet potatoes were cut into thin layers and bound together with heavy cream and chipotle. After being pressed in a sheet pan for a day, they were cut into small squares, fried to a satisfying crispness and served with the restaurant’s pink sauce, which one server aptly described as a Caribbean Thousand Island.
And, unlike some bean-based patties and fritters that are dry and crumbly, Birdcage’s vegan croquettes offered a moist interior while still retaining their shape, instead of turning to mush when you cut into them.
Meanwhile, birria taco lovers would do well to order the red chicken tacos. They were as cheesy and dripping with meaty juice as renditions made with beef. Be sure to dunk them in the accompanying heady chicken consomme.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Chicken was a winner among the entrees, too — and not only for taste, but also for value. Citrus adobo rotisserie chicken was plump and flavorful from a two-day brine. Available as a half ($12) or whole ($24) order, it came with a couple of flour tortillas, pickled red onions and a choice of two sauces. It’s worth paying $3 for a side of red rice and another $4 to sample all five sauces.
Picanha steak brought generous strips of the sirloin cap. This cut, popular among Brazilian steakhouses, was cooked to a requested medium rare. With such beefy flavor, it didn’t need a dipping sauce. Neither did the ribs, which came slathered with an agave lime barbecue sauce too sweet for my palate. And while some might like it that the meat fell off the bone, I prefer some tug and chew.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
The eight drinks on Birdcage’s cocktail list are lighthearted references to characters or lines from the movie. None that I sampled tasted exceptional, but they do come with visual appeal.
The Pipi Loco (think daiquiri on the rocks) had a garnish of pineapple, orange and lime wedges. And the bar has fun with frozen drinks, such as a spiked horchata. A zero-proof drink made with a base of nonalcoholic tequila offered little body and muted flavor.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Beer and wine may be more dependable picks. The restaurant carries a dozen brews ($7 average), including Sierra Nevada’s Wild Little Thing sour ale and tepache from Atlanta Hard Cider Co. A list of 13 wines features solid products from Spain, Chile and Argentina. All are available by the glass ($11 average), as well as the bottle.
Cohen and Whitmer may be two gringos running a Latin restaurant, but with Birdcage’s lively atmosphere, a diverse scratch menu and a speedy floor staff, they’re well on their way to creating an oasis for everyone.
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
Credit: Courtesy of Liz Attaway @adventuresinatlanta
BIRDCAGE
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: Latin-inspired, majority of menu vegetarian
Service: food is quick to come out; if you want a coursed meal, don’t order everything at once
Noise level: above average during peak hours
Accessibility: ADA-compliant, but spacing is narrow between some tables
Recommended dishes: sweet potato bravas, red chicken tacos, sofrito squash, black bean croquettes, Birdcage Cobb salad, citrus adobo chicken, white chicken pozole
Vegetarian dishes: sweet potato bravas, sofrito squash, chile lime street corn, black bean croquettes, mojo tofu, red rice, sweet plantains, black beans, black bean soup, Cuban stew, Birdcage Cobb salad, Southwestern kale salad, chopped tostada salad
Alcohol: full bar with tropical-ish cocktails inspired by the movie “Birdcage”
Price range: $$ ($50 or less per person, excluding drinks)
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, noon-10 p.m. Saturdays, noon-9 p.m. Sundays
Parking: free lot, some street parking
MARTA station: King Memorial
Reservations: none, first-come, first-served
Outdoor dining: 30-seat patio expected in late spring
Takeout: Online ordering for pickup, delivery
Address, phone: 519 Memorial Drive SE, Atlanta. 404-996-0605
Website: birdcageatl.com
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