Izakaya-style bars are known for snack-sized dishes — such as skewered, grilled surf and turf — that pair well with drinks. The move at Yakitori Kona is to combine those grilled proteins, such as a skewer of lobster, with a colorful heap of veggies in a bowl of kona salad.

Mixed in with the greens were pickled daikon and cherry tomatoes, along with shaved red onion and crispy chickpeas. Snappy carrot-ginger dressing, fresh with natural sweetness and flecked with sesame seeds, tied everything together.

Meanwhile, hunks of lobster were grilled over binchotan charcoal, which burns cleanly, imparting subtle smoke. The pieces were basted with a tare made of mirin, ginger and sake. The result was beautiful in its simplicity, with the edges crisp and charred while the plump pieces stayed tender, with pristine flavor.

The skewers came caramelized and piping hot, providing contrast with the crisp, tangy greens.

With this dish, you can find healthful happiness in a cozy Japanese tavern.

Yakitori Kona. 1004 Virginia Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-343-1653, yakitorikona.com

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