When you bite into Bryan Hull’s jalapeño and cheddar sausages, you almost can taste the time that it took to make them.

The minced jalapeños are just one part of the complex process, which uses a powerhouse 500-gallon offset smoker fueled by Georgia oak. The three- to four-day preparation of the sausages begins with trimming, grinding, seasoning and resting the meat mix before encasing it. The handmade Texas-style links go through cold smoking, an ice bath, blooming, refrigeration and a second round on the pit, where smoke penetrates and crisps the casings.

A bite into the casing breaks it with a perfect snap and cheddar slowly oozes out. The interior is firm, yet tender and juicy. The spicing of the links is restrained, to showcase the full flavor of the meat. Every bit is imbued with subtle smokiness.

Just as you can’t rush good barbecue, making sausages like these is as complex as any fancy cuisine. The best way to experience them is to share a bountiful trayful.

Owens & Hull. 6255 Riverview Road SE, Mableton. 404-467-4427, gcbbq.com

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