The Philippines is the world’s second largest producer of coconuts, and I’m a fan of the hairy fruit — in the form of Kamayan ATL’s ginataang talong, or eggplant coconut curry.

“Ginataang” refers to Philippine foods cooked in coconut milk, and in this comfort dish the star is eggplant, or “talong” in the Tagalog language. Served in a clay pot, it delivered the homey comfort that the rustic earthenware implied. Sticky steamed rice was provided to be covered in the strongly aromatic sauce that was swimming with colorful vegetables.

Eggplant was front and center, not boosting a main protein as usual. This was the kind of eggplant for people who think they don’t like eggplant — firm enough to hold its shape, yet softened, with thin skin. It was mildly smoky and suffused with the flavors of the sauce. Chiles, garlic and onion played with the rich coconut milk in a sweet, savory combination. Shredded purple cabbage added crunch, and the string beans were snappy.

Kamayan ATL. 5150 Buford Highway NE, Doraville. 678-231-2122, kamayanatl.com

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