Moderna Atlanta: Mexican food and a Miami feel in Sandy Springs

Service: hit or miss, oddly better on crowded nights

Best dishes: Teatro D.F., Jewban, Tlacoyo

Vegetarian selections: A few choices, all labeled on the menu

Price range: $-$$

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover

Hours: 5-11 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Thursdays, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fridays, and 1 p.m.-2 a.m. Saturdays.

Children: welcome

Parking: ample

Reservations: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate to loud, depending on the music

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 8540 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs, 770-557-0945

Website: www.modernaatl.com

If you like …

Taqueria del Sol

Don’t be surprised to find a line out of the door at this wildly popular Atlanta-based taco chain, especially at the Cheshire Bridge location. Featuring daily specials for tacos, and entrees, Taqueria del Sol has made its name as one of the first restaurants in Atlanta to popularize unique affordable and chef-driven tacos featuring fresh ingredients. An insider tip — If there is a spot open at the bar, you can skip the line and take a seat. Lunch — 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; Dinner — 5:30- 9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, and 5:30-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. 2165 Cheshire Bridge Road, Atlanta. 404-321-1118, www.taqueriadelsol.com. $

Holy Taco — East Atlanta

This taqueria focuses on providing unique and interesting tacos while promoting sustainable, local ingredients and a constantly evolving, chef-driven menu. Chef Robert Phalen augments his Mexican cuisine with Peruvian and Columbian dishes. Don’t be scared to try some of the more adventures dishes, such as the roasted beef tongue or White Oak Farms young goat tacos. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 1314 Glenwood Ave., East Atlanta. 404-230-6177, www.holy-taco.com. $

Perla Taqueria — Atlanta

Perla Taqueria on Piedmont Road offers a diverse menu anchored by a wide range of Latin-American inspired tacos, as well as soups, salads and burritos. Easily one of the best deals in town, Perla’s tacos range from $1.99 to $2.99 each. For an added bonus of convenience, Perla also offers a drive-thru window for diners looking for a good taco on the go. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, and 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. 1958 Piedmont Road, Atlanta. 404-607-7272, www.perlaatl.com. $

From the moment I first approach the bright white facade, stuck onto the end of a small strip mall on Roswell Road, I get the feeling that this does not belong here. Then, as I step into Moderna Atlanta, I find myself feeling far away from Sandy Springs and realize … maybe that is the point?

Moderna Atlanta’s concept — one part upscale Mexican restaurant, one part event space and one part Miami nightclub — is largely the brainchild of co-owner Josh Ahlzadeh, who can be seen working the floor seven nights a week. If his goal is to serve carefully crafted authentic Mexican cuisine in a modern, hip setting, then I’d have to say he has succeeded.

The decor is a unique combination of modern, white and aqua color schemes, offset by walls of reclaimed wood with moss between the planks like mortar. A long, white bar mounted with oversized TVs sprawls along the side of the room, and a DJ booth overlooks the entire scene. At the center of the room sits an elevated stage with a projection screen, where Ahlzadeh and team play host to entertainment and events such as movie screenings, DJs and corporate luncheons.

Moderna attracts a diverse crowd. On a given Saturday, you may find couples snuggling in the VIP-ish booths along the back wall and clubbers sipping margaritas at the bar waiting for the dance floor to pick up, all while a family of six digs in to an order of Taquitos Diaz ($6). A constantly swirling light show and soundtrack of electronic dance music further contribute to the South Beach club feel, but never to the point where it overwhelms conversation — Moderna remains more restaurant than club. You’ll never feel out of place here snacking on the house-made tortilla chips with your order of guacamole classico ($7).

I’m pleasantly surprised to find a stronger cocktail program than I expect for a Mexican concept. Though heavily focused on margaritas, Moderna features more than a dozen signature takes of the drinks, making use of a wide range of tequilas, mezcals and vodkas. I don’t expect to love the Diablo Old Fashioned ($9) as much as I do, but the rich smoky mezcal with the agave and bitters goes down so easily, I have to order a second round. And on a hot summer afternoon, the Oaxacan Mule ($9), a Moscow Mule made with mint and mezcal, is as refreshing as it is complex.

Ahlzadeh and his partners tapped chef Ignacio Barquera, previously of Red Pepper Taqueria, Nava, Relish and La Paz. Barquera’s menu, which focuses on a mix of affordable tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas and entrees, invokes the authenticity of the street food he encountered as a child growing up in Mexico City, but with modern, upscale twists.

Beyond the standard chips-and-dips-style appetizers, a great starter for a group is the Tlacoyo ($7) — a traditional-style masa cake, but topped with panela and Chihuahua cheese, grilled shrimp and salsa verde. I’d love to hear the back story on the hybrid sandwich, the Jewban ($9), that can only be described as Barquera’s unique spin on a Cuban sandwich — slow-roasted brisket, crumbled chorizo sausage, avocados, tomatoes, jalapenos and refried beans on Mexican bread. And in one of the more by-the-book dishes, his Chicken Mole ($12) still impresses. Instead of the chocolate-heavy varieties I often encounter, this mole sauce pops with hearty doses of cumin, chili and spices, only offering the hint of Mexican chocolate at the finish.

Perhaps the strongest part of Barquera’s offerings is the selection of tacos, available on flour, corn, wheat or hard-shell tortillas. He packs a lot of flavor into the crisped hunks of steak in the Teatro D.F. ($4), topped with caramelized onions, bacon, peppers and salsa. The smoked-jalapeno salsa served with the juicy shredded beef on the brisket taco ($4) packs a wallop of flavor, giving this the taste of a backyard campfire. And the pickled habanero onions on the Pibil ($4) give this pork taco a nice jolt of heat.

While the food leaves me with little to nothing to complain about, I encounter a few bumps with the service. And oddly enough, it is during the slowest periods that we have the most trouble. On a crowded Saturday night, service runs smoothly. But sitting at the bar on a nearly dead Tuesday, or a basically empty Sunday night, we crane our necks wondering where our next glass of water might come from or what could possibly be taking the appetizers so long. Perhaps the first-string servers should come off the bench on more than just busy weekends, but overall, I’d say these were minor inconveniences.

Moderna offers Sandy Springs a refreshing take on authentic Mexican cuisine and fills a gap for a hip watering hole. If you find yourself in the area, it is certainly worth checking out.