It takes a bit of planning to manage fall and winter squash in Georgia. Elliot Smith of Sun Dog Farm says farmers generally try to get their planting done right after the last frost date in order to take advantage of the early growing season when it’s not so hot. That means harvesting begins in late summer. “Our acorn and delicata squash were ready in August because we planted them in late May and early June, but we didn’t bring them to market until September because people really aren’t ready for them earlier. Even I’m not ready to eat them any earlier,” he said.
Of the half acre Smith and his wife Darby put into winter squash, they devoted about 500 row feet to acorn squash. Other varieties they’re growing are delicata, butternut and kabocha. Smith says these kinds of squash are a good choice for someone with a lot of space. “They’re a pretty low maintenance crop. We have to cultivate maybe once or twice, and then the vines take over and shade out the weeds. If we grew a half acre of tomatoes, we’d die of exhaustion,” he said.
After they harvested their acorn squash, the Smiths cured it in the attic of the old farmstead that came with their 12-and-a-half acres of pasture, woodland and growing space in Blairsville. Curing concentrates the sugars. After a week to 10 days, they moved the squash to a cooler, drier spot, where it will keep for several months, allowing them to bring it to market over the fall and into winter.
This is the Smiths’ first year on this property although they’ve been farming full time for five years in Vermont and in Douglasville, Madison and Savannah. They’re growing vegetables, fruit and herbs without herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilizers and managing their land by paying attention to soil fertility, plant growth and livestock care. They’re raising heirloom livestockand hope to be able to offer milk, butter and cheese soon. They sell their produce to restaurants like Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch, and they bring it to the Saturday morning Peachtree Road Farmers Market.
“No matter how many times our customers have cooked a vegetable, I find they’re always interested in hearing what the farmer thinks they should do with it. We try to give people a quick recipe and our favorite for acorn squash is to cut it in half, scoop out the seeds and bake it upside down with a little water until it’s nice and tender. Then we drizzle it with a little butter and honey. That’s our go-to dessert. And if you use the flesh to make a ‘pumpkin’ pie, you’ll wonder why you ever cooked with canned pumpkin,” he said.
Acorn squash is a good keeper. Put in a dark, cool place, it can keep for up to six months, although it’s best used within the first month or two.
At local farmers markets
Cooking demos:
4-8 p.m. Thursday, October 3. Chef Seth Freedman of Forage and Flame offers demos throughout the market. East Atlanta Village Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.farmeav.com
9 a.m. Saturday, October 5. Chef Jarrett Stierber of Candler Park Market, working with pie pumpkins. Morningside Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.morningsidemarket.com
10 a.m. Saturday, October 5. 4th Annual Market Mash-Up. Peachtree Road Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.peachtreeroadfarmersmarket.com
11 a.m. Saturday, October 5. Chef Christopher Blobaum of Legacy Restaurant Partners. Green Market at Piedmont Park, Atlanta. www.piedmontpark.org
For sale
Vegetables, fruit and nuts: apples, arugula, Asian greens, broccoli rabe, cabbage, carrots, celery, chard, chestnuts, collards, corn, cucumbers, dandelion. edamame, eggplant, field peas, figs, garlic, ginger, green beans, herbs, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, lettuce, Malabar spinach, melons, muscadines, mushrooms, mustard greens, okra, onions, pea shoots, pears, peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, sorrel, spinach, spring onions, summer squash, sweet potatoes, sweet potato greens, tomatoes, turmeric, turnips, winter squash
From local reports
Meehan’s Public House Roasted Acorn Squash Soup
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes
Serves: 6
Acorn squash can be treated like most winter squash as demonstrated by this recipe from chef Val Domingo of Meehan’s Public House. The cinnamon-sour cream topping adds both tangy contrast and warm spice.
2 acorn squash (about 1 pound each)
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 slices applewood-smoked bacon, diced
2 ribs celery, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 medium carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups half-and-half
1/2 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Parsley and crumbled bacon for garnish
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Split the acorn squash in half, scoop out and discard the seeds. Sprinkle with brown sugar, salt and pepper. Arrange squash halves cut side up in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Add enough water to come halfway up the sides of the squash and carefully move to oven. Roast squash 45 minutes or until tender. Carefully remove baking dish from oven and allow squash to cool. Once squash has cooled enough to handle, scoop out pulp and set aside. Discard skin.
While squash is cooling, in a large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add bacon and cook until crisp. Remove bacon, drain and set aside.
Add celery, carrot and onion to the fat in the saucepan and cook over medium-high heat 4 minutes. Stir in chicken stock and stir to scrape any browned bits off bottom of pan. Add reserved squash pulp and half-and-half. Taste for seasoning. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
While soup is simmering, stir together sour cream and cinnamon and refrigerate.
After soup has simmered 20 minutes, using an immersion blender, puree soup. Or puree soup in the jar of a blender, being very careful with hot liquid. If using blender, return soup to pot, add reserved bacon and taste again for seasoning.
When ready to serve, divide soup between serving bowls, add sour cream mixture and garnish with parsley and crumbled bacon if desired.
Per serving: 294 calories (percent of calories from fat, 55), 13 grams protein, 25 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 21 grams fat (11 grams saturated), 51 milligrams cholesterol, 143 milligrams sodium.
About the Author
