Many moving parts fall deliciously into place

LUSCA

Overall rating: 3 of 5 stars

Food: seafood, nigiri and more

Service: enthusiastic and knowledgeable, but still working on the rhythm

Best dishes: whole roasted fish, charcuterie, quail

Vegetarian selections: a couple of small starter salads or vegetables, but probably not the best place for a vegetarian

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Price range: $$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 5-11 p.m. Saturdays

Children: better not

Parking: valet

Reservations: suggested

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate to loud

Patio: no

Takeout: no

Address, phone: 1829 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta. 678-705-1486

Website: www.luscaatl.com

At first glance, it may seem like things don’t quite jibe at Lusca, the new Brookwood Hills restaurant. There’s a lot going on here. But this one’s worth a second look.

Lusca doesn’t have the edge of sister restaurant Octopus Bar, but it isn’t the place for a traditional three-course meal. The fare reflects the varied cooking experience of co-owners Angus Brown and Nhan Le and comes together as a melange of Mediterranean-inspired seafood, boutique oysters, nigiri, charcuterie and an assortment of “turf” dishes.

Simple preparations and crafty pairings dominate here. Slippery smooth uni bounces its metallic fragrance off the buttery goodness of an eggy tagliatelle with nips of bacon and breadcrumbs for texture. Overlapping circles of thinly shaved kohlrabi settle in with sleek strips of white anchovy, creamy blots of Saint Agur blue cheese and whole pistachios.

At first glance, I wondered if Lusca could synchronize so many moving parts. I wondered if it would work. But, quirks and all, it just does.