First Look: Staplehouse patio, Old Fourth Ward

541 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta, 404-524-5005, staplehouse.com.

Staplehouse officially opened for business last week after a series of preview events. One of most the highly anticipated Atlanta restaurants in recent memory, the concept is unique in a number of ways.

Importantly, it functions as a for-profit subsidiary of the Giving Kitchen, a not-for-profit charity that provides emergency grants to metro Atlanta restaurant workers. Notably, all guests in the main dining room are served chef Ryan Smith’s five-course tasting menu ($85) at tables reserved by purchasing tickets in advance.

But if you want to grab a bite or a drink on the patio or at the bar, it’s first come, first served, the menu is à la carte, and there’s no need to purchase a ticket.

The look: Staplehouse is located in a neat, narrow two-story brick building on Edgewood Avenue, where you slip through a back gate to enter a walled secret garden. There 40 seats in the dining room and eight at the bar. The covered patio has some 30 seats at long communal tables that look out on a lawn with a small pond and an auxiliary kitchen constructed like a fancy man shed.

The scene: At a ticketed patio preview last month, every table was packed with friends and well-wishers, sharing hugs and toting BYOB bags. Apart from the more formal dining room inside, the space is clearly meant to be casual and fun, with separate food and drink menus to match.

The food: The patio menu of small plates and shares is ever-changing, seasonal and playful. But a few staples have emerged. Funions ($7), a snacky riff on the fried onion junk food favorite, are served with burnt shallot dipping sauce. Grilled Alligator Cove oysters ($15) are topped with popcorn butter and vinegar for a sophisticated combo of rich/salty/tart/umami flavors. Other offerings have included Roasted Mushrooms ($12) with farro verde and sunflower, and Autumn Squash ($9) with pecan duck skin crumble, pickled lemon, caparinos, apple and buttermilk.

The drinks: A delayed liquor license put the beverage program on hold. But the sample menu includes a good selection of Georgia beers from the likes of Creature Comforts, Sweetwater and Wild Heaven. On the patio, look for approachable wines by the glass and bottle, plus sparkling cider and batched cocktails, all curated by beverage director Stephen James.

The extras: BYOB will go away as soon as the liquor license is granted, so even if you have a ticket for the tasting menu, you should call ahead for the latest information.