A deep-hued glass of wine is a cozy companion on chilly nights. Why not let syrah be your red this winter?
Big, bold and overripe are terms we’ve often seen associated with syrah, known as shiraz in Australia and South Africa. If it has been a minute since you considered syrah, it might be because of the beastly styles that had their moment in decades past.
These days, many producers are creating balanced wines from this inky grape. By balanced, we mean lower alcohol, with less extraction. Think juicy, not jammy. We also look for wines with the distinct savory elements that make this grape so fascinating. It can manifest as the scent of bacon, beef or olives, and be highlighted with notes of black pepper, coffee or warm baking spices.
We find syrah to be incredibly versatile when pairing it with food, compared with other full-bodied red wines. Syrah pairs well with red meat, but also is a delight with roasted chicken and duck. Its intrinsic earthiness goes well with mushrooms and root vegetables. And, it is a far friendlier companion to cheeses than more tannic styles of red, such as cabernet sauvignon.
You can find syrah grapes in almost every growing region in the world. Some of our favorites come from France’s Rhone Valley, Australia’s Barossa Valley and Victoria, and from cooler climates in California’s North Coast American Viticultural Area.
We used to speak of Old World versus New World, or Europe versus America and countries of the Southern Hemisphere in defining style. Now, it seems to come down to winemakers’ decisions, rather than just simple geography. Unlike the past, you can find savory, subtle shiraz from Australia, and rich, fruity versions of syrah from France.
Here are three international picks at the top of our syrah wish list:
Patrick Jasmin La Chevaliere syrah — Jasmin is a producer in the prestigious Cote-Rotie appellation in the northern Rhone Valley region of eastern France, but La Chevaliere is labeled under the Collines Rhodaniennes denomination, resulting in an earlier-drinking, much less expensive wine. It is made from younger vines on the lower plains of Jasmin’s property. Layered with cinnamon, bacon fat and juicy, plummy fruit, this $25 bottle gives you a taste of the legendary terroir at a fraction of the price.
Jolie-Laide Halcon Vineyard syrah 2017 — Jolie-Laide is a small operation, but a significant part of the contemporary guard of California producers championing syrah from cooler climates in the state. Bright and peppery, with notes of licorice and cassis, this limited-production $50 wine is a special holiday treat.
Micro Wines shiraz 2019 — Micro is a tiny operation that makes beautiful wines from multiple vineyard sites in Australia. This elegant shiraz comes from Geelong in Victoria. Priced in the low $30s, it brings floral and olive tones over blackberry fruit. Enjoy this on a cold night, with braised short ribs over polenta.
The Slaters are beverage industry veterans and the proprietors of the Expat and the Lark Winespace in Athens.
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