Blending wine grapes is about making a wine that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Most wines are blended, even when made from one variety of grape. Producers may blend fruit from several vineyards that have different elevation or soil type. Or, it may be, say, 100% chardonnay grapes from the same vineyard, but the winemaker may age half of the wine in oak barrels, half in stainless steel, and then blend them together before bottling.
While single-varietal wines obviously can be outstanding (we see you, chardonnay in Burgundy), there is a surprise factor to a blend that gives an unexpected combination. Folks may know some famous blended red wines without realizing that they are blends. Bordeaux is iconic; Cotes du Rhone, a trusted weeknight companion. Both of these traditional blends have prescriptive rules about the grapes that can be used, which is common in the French regional classification system.
Here in the U.S., winemakers have creative license to blend all manner of grapes, and, thanks to the epic popularity of wines like the Prisoner, the California red blend has become a ubiquitous category.
We don’t talk as much about great white blends, perhaps because white wine has played second fiddle to red for a long time. But, white grapes can provide just as interesting a palette. Different grapes have different characteristics. For instance, sauvignon blanc and riesling add acidity. Viognier and gewurztraminer add aromatics, and marsanne and semillon add body and texture.
Here are three whites whose blend of grapes creates flavors and textures beyond their singular attributes. Look for these labels at well-stocked bottle shops.
Domaine François Villard Vin de Pays Les Contours de Mairlant 2018 — This elegant classic from the northern Rhone Valley in France is made up mostly of marsanne, with a small amount of roussanne to add brightness. Full-bodied, with notes of quince, golden raisin and ginger, this is a treat for the holiday table.
Ovum Big Salt 2020 — Run by a husband-and-wife team in Oregon, Ovum is unique for making only white wine, mainly from the classic grapes of Alsace. In the style of Alsatian Edelzwicker blends, this wine is made from riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot blanc and other grapes (the blend can vary from vintage to vintage). Opulent aromas of jasmine meet with salt water taffy and candied lemon. Thanks to the riesling, there is vibrant acidity. This is a natural pairing with sushi and other seafood.
Kumusha The Flame Lily white 2020 — South Africa long has been known as a great region for chenin blanc. This blend includes some chenin, but goes rogue, combining grapes you would be hard pressed to find together in France. Roussane, chenin blanc, viognier, semillon and colombard make for a golden delight of apple, orange blossom and caramel. Treat yourself on movie night with this, and popcorn.
The Slaters are beverage industry veterans and the proprietors of the Expat and the Lark Winespace in Athens.
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