RECIPE: Wonder no longer. Here’s how to bake the white bread of your youth

Old-fashioned squishy white bread doesn't need to be loaded up with additives to be delicious.
Courtesy of Marie Restaino.

Credit: Marie Restaino

Credit: Marie Restaino

Old-fashioned squishy white bread doesn't need to be loaded up with additives to be delicious. Courtesy of Marie Restaino.

One question I am asked most frequently is how a home baker can achieve the same dramatically crusty sourdough loaves that come from a professional bake shop.

I get it. A beautiful boule is a great way to impress friends and family, and making sourdough can be meditative, personally fulfilling and nourishing.

The humble pan loaf, a decidedly less trendy staple of home baking from a bygone era, does not enjoy the same reputation. I find this sad and a little unfair. Like many kids of the ‘90s, I was raised on loaves of squishy grocery store white bread. While I don’t advocate loading up any baked good with preservatives, I am still a touch nostalgic for the bread of my youth and dug up a recipe that hits the same squishy notes without the additives.

For less than $20, you can purchase a very good Pullman-style loaf pan. I recommend you pick one up and join me in rediscovering the simple joy of baking your own pan breads.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.