As the COVID-19 lockdown drags on, I’m always on the lookout for a new project to break the monotony within the claustrophobic confines of my condo. My stepdaughter is proving her prowess as a needlepoint artist. A member of my book club is learning to play the cello online. Facebook friends impress me daily with achievements in everything from bread-baking to furniture-making.
For now, I’ve turned to mixology to satisfy my creative itch — with and without the spirits. At this early stage of my education (I purchased my first cocktail shaker a month ago), I’ve learned that it’s less messy and time-consuming than other kitchen projects, yet no less challenging when it comes to balancing flavors. There’s a knack to the shaking and stirring to get the chill and the mouthfeel just right, and even the age and shape of the ice cube can distinguish a good drink from a mediocre one. I treated myself to a buying spree at the liquor store to hone my technique with some classic cocktails. But I’m fully aware of the negative consequences — to my health and my bank account — that could occur should I get carried away.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
Julia Bainbridge’s “Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You’re Not Drinking for Whatever Reason” (Ten Speed, $22.99), which hits shelves in October, may keep me from going too far down that road. Bainbridge, Atlanta magazine’s former food editor, abstains from alcohol due to a substance use disorder, but says the book is also for the “sober curious” — that is, those who choose to take a break from alcohol for health-minded reasons other than addiction.
After leaving Atlanta for New York in 2018, Bainbridge spent a summer scouting the country for sophisticated zero-proof alternatives to the cloying, one-note “mocktails” of yesteryear. She gathered recipes from their creators and shared their tips for infusing syrups with herbs and spices, boosting umami with bitters or soy sauce, adding body with egg whites and cream, and rimming the glasses with savory salt blends. Eduardo Guzman of Atlanta’s Mission + Market impressed her with a simple concoction he called Midnight Magic: a shot of espresso poured over ice, topped off with tonic water, spiked with a dash of walnut bitters, and garnished with a lemon twist.
Top-quality ingredients are a must, and though not as expensive as a cabinet-full of well-aged spirits, some are unapologetically pricey and may require special sourcing (fresh white pine needles or dried butterfly pea flowers, for instance). That’s part of the adventure and fun.
“Especially during the pandemic, when I’ve been at home in sweats for months, playing with my fancy toys gives me access to a more chic kind of evening,” she said in an email interview. “I like all the tinkering involved, and at a time when there’s so little to celebrate, building these drinks gives me a sense of control over my world.”
Credit: THEODORE SAMUELS STUDIO
Credit: THEODORE SAMUELS STUDIO
Inspired by Bainbridge, I reached out to mixologists around the city to help us sharpen our zero-proof drink-making skills, and share those thirst-quenching offerings today along with one from John deBary’s terrific new cocktail book, “Drink What You Want” (Potter, $25).
RECIPES
There’s a knack to the shaking and stirring to get the chill and the mouthfeel just right, and even the age and shape of the ice cube can distinguish a good drink from a mediocre one.
Credit: Chris Watkins
Credit: Chris Watkins
Painappuru Juzu (Umi)
New York Times food writer Kim Severson gave up alcohol years ago, but still likes to treat her palate to a well-made drink. One of her favorite discoveries was this creation from Umi, the upscale Japanese restaurant in Buckhead. The drink is tropical, citrusy, floral and not too sweet, with a little heat and some complexity. Yuzu juice, an aromatic Japanese citrus fruit with a flavor reminiscent of grapefruit, tangerine and Meyer lemon, is a key component. I ordered it online from Yakimi Orchard. If you don’t want to go to that effort and expense, any citrus will be delicious in its place.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
Pineapple-Turmeric Soda (Botiwalla)
“India has always had a vibrant mocktail scene, with interesting nonalcoholic drinks being served by humble street vendors as well as in five-star hotels,” says Matthew Schneeberger, culture training and onboarding manager for Chai Pani and Botiwalla restaurants, where both menus feature assorted lassis and house-made sodas. “It’s a big part of the culture.” This vibrant offering at Botiwalla blends pineapple with lime juice and peppery, health-giving turmeric root readily available in most produce sections.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
Figgin’ Delicious (Southern Belle)
At Southern Belle, chef Joey Ward and his staff try to cross-utilize ingredients between the kitchen and the bar, and this full-flavored drink is a prime example, says assistant general manager Kevin Bragg.
The Fig-Balsamic Syrup, he notes, is the liquid used to cook the local figs they serve on grilled focaccia with chevre, hazelnut tahini, and arugula, and the figs and syrup are also good with grilled pork, charcuterie, pancakes and ice cream. For an alcoholic drink, Bragg pairs the syrup with an aged Rhum Agricole or Richland Rum from Brunswick.
Credit: Bart Sasso
Credit: Bart Sasso
Saline Sibling (Ticonderoga Club)
Greg Best, a co-founder of Ticonderoga Club, the craft cocktail-driven tavern within Krog Street Market, finds the process of creating quality zero-proof cocktails as “fun and cerebrally challenging” as devising the high-octane stuff. The Saline Sibling is a house favorite, blending hibiscus tea with house-made ginger and lime sodas and a little salt “to make it more savory and dynamic.” They offer it at the restaurant while guests wait for takeout orders, or bottled to go.
Credit: Contributed
Credit: Contributed
A Good Look (Oak Steakhouse)
Jeff Gates, the general manager of Oak Steakhouse in Alpharetta, is also in charge of the bar offerings and keeps several zero-proof options in the rotation, such as this rejuvenating elixir. For an alcoholic alternative to a margarita, he suggests substituting 1 1/2 ounces each of coconut and Goza tequila for the 4 ounces of coconut water here. “It’s easy to batch by changing the ounces to cups,” he adds.
Credit: Sarah Tanat-Jones
Credit: Sarah Tanat-Jones
Watermelon Fennel Collins
In “Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails” (Potter, $25), John deBary cleverly re-creates the heat and spice of gin and absinthe with white pepper, fresh fennel, and fennel seed in this bubbly watermelon refresher. This drink can be easily spiked with vodka, gin, or blanco tequila, he writes, and scaled up as a pitcher drink with or without spirits.
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