Atlanta Orders In: Dave Poe’s food journey runs from Stone Mountain to Marietta

This order from Dave Poe's BBQ in Marietta includes pork, beef brisket and baked macaroni and cheese. Bob Townsend for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Bob Townsend

Credit: Bob Townsend

This order from Dave Poe's BBQ in Marietta includes pork, beef brisket and baked macaroni and cheese. Bob Townsend for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Dave Poe first partnered with Sam Huff in 2004 to open Sam and Dave’s BBQ, a Marietta landmark.

Nowadays, the Sam and Dave’s legacy — and friendly rivalry — lives on, with Huff still running what’s now called Sam’s BBQ-1 in east Cobb and Poe having his own barbecue place, Dave Poe’s BBQ, in west Marietta. Former partner Dave Roberts has Community Q in Decatur.

I wrote about Community Q last year, and talked with Roberts about his time working with Huff and Poe.

Recently, I made it back to Poe’s place, and found out a little more about his food journey — which goes back to selling cotton candy, popcorn and snow cones with his family during his high school years.

Sides at Dave Poe’s BBQ include baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens. Bob Townsend for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Bob Townsend

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Credit: Bob Townsend

“We did all the concessions out at Stone Mountain Park for five years,” Poe said. “While we were out there, one thing led to another, and we were suddenly in the catering business.”

During that time, Poe began learning about barbecue, and his family took on the concession and catering business at Lake Lanier. Later, Poe would get into competition barbecue in a serious way, starting with a team that became the first grand champions at the annual Big Pig Jig in Vienna, Georgia.

Dave Poe’s BBQ occupies a strip center storefront on Whitlock Avenue, west of Marietta Square. Stepping inside to order at the counter, you’re greeted by a long shelf full of barbecue trophies.

The chalkboard menus on the wall behind the counter may not be easy for first-timers to navigate, but the essentials are all there — either by the pound, or as plates with sides.

Favorites out of Poe’s smokers include moist, tender pulled pork, with a nice ratio of bark; soft, juicy sliced beef brisket; and perfectly rendered, meaty St. Louis cut spareribs.

This order of St. Louis-cut spareribs from Dave Poe's BBQ is served with coleslaw and baked beans. Bob Townsend for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Bob Townsend

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Credit: Bob Townsend

The baked mac and cheese — with rigatoni pasta, sharp cheddar, Monterey jack and Parmesan cheeses, and heavy cream — is the must-have side. Tangy chopped slaw, with pineapple juice and celery seeds; candy-sweet baked beans; and spicy collards all are good, too.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you should try the Redneck Lasagna — a crazy concoction with loaded mac and cheese over Brunswick stew.

“My daughter actually came up with that one day when we were still at Sam and Dave’s,” Poe said. “For a long time, it was an underground cult thing, and then we finally put it on the menu.”

Longtime regulars often order the lunch special, which is a sandwich, a side, and a drink.

“That will always be the No. 1 seller,” Poe said, “but pork is still king in the South. And, brisket has made its way into the South now, too.”

Perhaps not too surprisingly, Poe said his restaurant has managed to navigate the challenges of the pandemic well enough to keep everyone working.

“I feel really blessed to be in the middle of a pandemic and we’re actually making money,” he said. “But, we’re more set up for takeout. Like I said from the get-go, people aren’t going to spend $35 for an entree in a Styrofoam box from a fine-dining restaurant. Certainly, not on a weekly basis.”

One thing that has changed is the catering business. “That just all of the sudden stopped, which really got in our pocket,” Poe said. “But, the restaurant supports itself with just walk-up and takeout. The only thing we changed is we cut our hours back on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.”

Ask about his plans for the future, Poe said he just wants to keep doing what he’s always done.

“I asked my wife one day, when I was for leaving work, ‘What do think about me retiring,’” he said. “She looked at me, and she said, ‘You’d go crazy.’ And that’s true. I like being around people. I have a good time. I love my job. I can’t believe that I actually get paid as well as I do to do what I do.”

A shelf full of barbecue competition trophies greets visitors to Dave Poe’s BBQ in Marietta. Bob Townsend for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Bob Townsend

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Credit: Bob Townsend

DAVE POE’S BBQ

Menu: barbecue

Alcohol: no

What I ordered: a half-pound of beef brisket; a half-pound of pulled pork; a half-rack of St. Louis-cut ribs; mac and cheese; baked beans; coleslaw; and collard greens. Everything was solid, and traveled well, but the smoked meats and macaroni and cheese were close to perfection. I forgot about dessert. Next time, I’ll order the banana pudding or a fried apple pie.

Service options: dine-in with counter service; takeout; curbside pickup; delivery via DoorDash

Outdoor dining: four sidewalk tables

Mask policy: employees wear masks

Address, phone: 660 Whitlock Ave., Marietta; 770-792-2272

Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays; closed Sundays

Website: davepoes.com

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