A celebration of the glories our region’s beloved collard greens and cheese grits, “Fred Thompson’s Southern Sides: 250 Dishes That Really Make the Plate” (University of North Carolina Press, $35) also serves as a handy and seasonable companion for home cooks searching for sides to serve at holiday gatherings.
Thompson is a North Carolina native, food, wine and travel writer, and cookbook author.
His argument for the importance of side dishes to the South is expressed throughout “Southern Sides” in warmhearted and entertaining expositions of everything from fried okra to congealed salads.
Recipes
These recipes with introductions from “Fred Thompson’s Southern Sides: 250 Dishes That Really Make the Plate” (University of North Carolina Press, $35) include a hospitable shrimp starter and two dishes perfect for the Thanksgiving or Christmas table.
Fred’s Pickled Shrimp
Hands on: 30 minutes. Total Time: 30 minutes plus at least 24 hours for pickling. Serves: 8
I keep a jar of pickled shrimp in the refrigerator throughout the summer and early fall. They have a multitude of uses — a nibble for unexpected company, a topping for a salad, scattered around a platter of fish, or a really cool martini garnish.
1 cup thinly sliced yellow or sweet onions
1 cup white vinegar
1⁄2 cup olive oil
1 lemon, thinly sliced
1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 2- ounce jar brined capers, drained and coarsely chopped
4 bay leaves, crushed
2 small garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 pounds 24- count wild caught shrimp, peeled and deveined
In a large (at least 2 quarts) heatproof glass or ceramic bowl, mix the onions, vinegar, oil, lemon, lemon juice, capers, bay leaves, garlic, salt, celery seeds, and pepper flakes in a large (at least 2 quarts) heatproof glass or ceramic bowl.
Place a 6-to-8-quart stockpot over high heat and fill 2⁄3 full of water. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp. Immediately remove from heat and let the shrimp steep for 4 minutes. Drain and immediately pour the shrimp into the marinade. If the shrimp are a little undercooked, don’t be concerned. They will continue to cook in the marinade.
Place the shrimp and the marinade in an airtight container. Refrigerate at least overnight; 3 days will give you a better flavor. The shrimp will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
Serve at room temperature.
Per serving: 259 calories (percent of calories from fat, 54), 23 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 16 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 173 milligrams cholesterol, 560 milligrams sodium.
From “Fred Thompson’s Southern Sides: 250 Dishes That Really Make the Plate” (University of North Carolina Press, $35).
Cornbread, Apple, and Sausage Dressing
Hands on: 30 minutes Total Time: 1 hour. Serves: 12 or more
This exquisite dressing first started to take shape during my early years of culinary exploration. Over the years, that recipe has morphed into this family favorite. Don’t save it just for Thanksgiving or Christmas. It’s good with all poultry and pork. It reheats beautifully and makes one hell of a lunch. Be sure to cook your cornbread at least 1 day in advance to let it dry out. That way, it will hold up better and have a more pronounced flavor. And no instant cornbread mixes, thank you very much.
2 pounds country sausage with sage
2 cups coarsely chopped onions
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
3 tart apples, like Granny Smith, cored and cut into chunks
9 cups cornbread, broken into 1- inch chunks
1 tablespoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons dried sage
1⁄2 cup coarsely chopped flat- leaf parsley
1 1⁄2 cups dried sweetened cranberries
Vegetable cooking spray
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
In a 12- inch sauté pan over medium heat, break up the sausage. As the sausage cooks, continue to crumble it with a wooden spoon. Cook until the sausage is browned, 7–10 minutes. Remove the sausage from the pan, leaving the fat, and place the sausage in a very large mixing bowl.
Increase heat to medium high. Add the onions and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Pour the onions and sausage fat into the bowl with the sausage. Return the pan to the heat and melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. When the butter stops foaming, add the apple. Reduce heat to medium and cook slowly until the apples are slightly soft, about 10 minutes. Add this mixture to the sausage and onions.
Add the cornbread a handful at a time to the bowl, mixing after each addition. Stir in the thyme, sage, parsley, and cranberries.
Preheat oven to 400.
Spray a 15 × 17- inch casserole with vegetable spray. Pour the mixture into the casserole. Cut the remaining butter into small pieces and dot the dressing with them. Pour 1 cup of broth over the dressing. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Every 10 minutes, add a little broth and a little butter and stir to keep the dressing moist.
Serve hot or at room temperature.
Per serving: 761 calories (percent of calories from fat, 42), 18 grams protein, 77 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 42 grams fat (17 grams saturated), 72 milligrams cholesterol, 1,664 milligrams sodium.
From “Fred Thompson’s Southern Sides: 250 Dishes That Really Make the Plate” (University of North Carolina Press, $35).
Creamed Spinach and Pearl Onions
Hands on: 30 minutes. Total Time: 30 minutes. Serves: 8
Creamed spinach was not in my repertoire until I started working in Manhattan and discovered how inviting the dish could be. Put it underneath a steak or pork chop, and you have a tasty duo. While some may consider this a Northern dish, I think it’s eloquently Southern.
20 ounces pearl onions, loose ends chopped off
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1⁄4 cups milk
Fresh nutmeg
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound spinach, stemmed and roughly chopped
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Lemon juice, to taste
Fill a 3- quart saucepan half full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and cook for 3–5 minutes. Drain and run under cold water until the onions are cool enough to handle. Peel and set aside.
In a 2- quart saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook for about 2 minutes. Slowly add the milk, whisking, until a thick white sauce has developed. Add a grinding or two of nutmeg and a little salt. Reduce heat to low.
In a large sauté pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic. Cook for about a minute, add the onions, and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Add the spinach and mix with tongs until it wilts, usually 5–7 minutes. Stir in the white sauce and cook a few minutes longer. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
Serve immediately.
153 calories (percent of calories from fat, 65), 4 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 12 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 22 milligrams cholesterol, 235 milligrams sodium.
From “Fred Thompson’s Southern Sides: 250 Dishes That Really Make the Plate” (University of North Carolina Press, $35).
For more ideas about gifts, decorating, where to eat and what to do, check out our complete Atlanta Holiday Guide.
