Yeast-raised waffles served with jam and Nutella. Yum. Growing up in Montluçon in central France, that was Sunday morning breakfast for chef Cyrille Holota of BLT Steak Atlanta. Breakfast in bed for mom? Not so much.
In the Holota household of mom, dad and three children, it was mom who did the cooking.
“My mom is a fantastic cook. For the waffles, she was making the batter the night before, we’d go to bed and in the morning she’d cook them and voila!” said Holota.
Waffles may have been everyday fare for the Holotas, but in the States, waffles are often a special treat. You can have them made to order at a Mother’s Day brunch buffet, or maybe this is the year to make waffles and serve mom breakfast in bed.
In France, Mother’s Day is celebrated on the last Sunday of May. “We’d go to school and learn a small song or a poem. Mother’s Day was always nice weather and we’d go for a walk in the park, pick flowers for our mother, kiss her and tell her the poem we’d learned,” said Holota.
Holota’s parents, Annick and Jean Marc, retired a few years ago and began a new career running Chateau de Bourrossol, a 5-room bed and breakfast in Menetrol, France, where his mother cooks for her guests each day. “She is not a cook who needs recipes. She sees an idea in a cookbook and then takes off on her own,” he said.
It wasn’t until Holota came to the United States 15 years ago that he met the American Mother’s Day brunch. Holota came to Atlanta to work with The Ritz-Carlton where he spent 13 years. Two years ago he became executive chef for BLT Steak Atlanta where he also oversees the bar, room service and event food for W Atlanta – Downtown. And where he plans the restaurant’s Mother’s Day brunch.
Asked to create three waffle recipes special enough to make for mom for her special day, Holota’s first suggestion was a yeast-raised vanilla waffle like those his mother made. These are the waffles available each day on the restaurant’s breakfast and brunch menus.
Branching out from these vanilla waffles, Holota developed a recipe for a healthy waffle, full of whole grains and served with sauteed fruit, and a savory bacon-chive waffle served with roasted chicken.
BLT Steak Atlanta general manager Nicholas Alicea is another waffle fan. “Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day. I love making waffles and my kids love to eat them. We top them with Nutella and sometimes homemade ice cream,” said Alicea.
Holota and Alicea offered tips for making and eating great waffles at home:
• Make sure you read the manufacturer’s directions for your waffle iron. If the surface is nonstick, using a cooking spray can ruin it. Properly maintained, the nonstick surface will not need any help.
• Make sure the waffle iron is completely preheated before you make your first waffle.
• Be creative. Want chocolate chips in your waffles? Fine. Want something a little savory? Up the salt just a little in the waffles and add a savory topping like roast chicken.
• Waffles are not just for breakfast. Try them for lunch or dinner with ham, cheese and eggs on top. Holota remembers winter days when the family would top their waffles with sauteed chestnuts and ice cream. “We’d have spent hours outside, then come in and eat these waffles in front of the fireplace,” he said.
Topper:
Will you be serving breakfast in bed for Mother’s Day? From the kitchen of BLT Steak Atlanta and chef Cyrille Holota to yours, three recipes that will delight mom and everyone else in the family. The yields listed are for Belgian-style waffles. If you use a traditional American waffle iron, expect a higher yield.
Leftover waffles are like treasure. Cool waffles on a wire rack so they stay crisp, then wrap each individually in plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat in a toaster or toaster oven.
Multigrain Waffles with Peaches
Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes
Makes: 12 4-by-4-inch waffles and 4 cups peach garnish
“Our clients are always looking for healthy choices, so I thought I’d create a nice multigrain waffle. Using whole wheat and other grains is a simple and straightforward way to make healthier waffles,” said Holota. Serve these waffles with whatever fruit mom likes most. If peaches are not her thing, sauteed strawberries, apples or even bananas would all be delicious.
2 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
2/3 cup whole wheat flour
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup toasted wheat germ or cornmeal
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup mashed bananas
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 pounds peaches, quartered and pitted (about 12)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons honey
Mint sprigs and powdered sugar, for garnish
Preheat waffle iron. If needed, brush iron with oil before preheating.
In a large bowl, combine buttermilk and oats and let stand 15 minutes.
While oats are softening, in a medium bowl, whisk together whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, wheat germ or cornmeal, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. Stir bananas, eggs, sugar, oil and vanilla into the flour mixture. When oats have softened, stir them into flour mixture and mix with a rubber spatula just until moistened.
Spoon batter into preheated iron, covering about three-fourths of the surface. Close iron and cook until waffles are crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove cooked waffles and keep warm. Repeat process with remaining batter.
While waffles are cooking, make peach garnish. In a medium skillet, combine peach quarters, sugar and honey. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 2 minutes or until syrup is golden brown and bubbles all over. Keep warm.
When ready to serve, top warm waffles with peaches and serve immediately. Garnish with mint sprigs and powdered sugar if desired.
Adapted from a recipe provided by chef Cyrille Holota of BLT Steak Atlanta.
Per 1 waffle and 1/4 cup fruit serving: 175 calories (percent of calories from fat, 15), 6 grams protein, 33 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 3 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 37 milligrams cholesterol, 214 milligrams sodium.
Warm Vanilla Waffles
Hands on: 40 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes plus batter resting time
Makes: 12 4-by-4-inch waffles
Chef Cyrille Holata says, “Europeans eat waffles with whipped cream, powdered sugar, Nutella, chocolate and jam. The topping choice is yours!” To make a berry compote, toss 1 cup of berries with 2 tablespoons of honey and let sit for 20 minutes. Then serve over waffles with or without whipped cream. Holata suggests a combination of blackberries, strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. Need one more topping idea? Drizzle chocolate syrup on each waffle and then dust with powdered sugar.
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk, divided
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
3 eggs
1 cup warm water
1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped or 1 teaspoon vanilla paste
Pinch salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
Berry compote, or other garnish as desired
In a 1-cup measuring cup, combine 1/2 cup milk with yeast. Stir to dissolve yeast and set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together eggs, water and remaining 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk.
In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, scraped vanilla beans or vanilla paste and salt.
Stir the yeast mixture and the egg mixture into the dry ingredients and whisk until well combined. Whisk in the melted butter until just incorporated. Cover the bowl and refrigerate batter overnight.
When ready to serve, preheat waffle iron. If needed, brush iron with oil before preheating.
Spoon batter into hot iron, covering about three-fourths of the surface. Close iron and cook until waffles are crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove cooked waffles and serve immediately or keep warm. Repeat process with remaining batter.
Serve garnished with berries, if desired.
Adapted from a recipe provided by chef Cyrille Holota of BLT Steak Atlanta.
Per waffle: 231 calories (percent of calories from fat, 67), 5 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 17 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 96 milligrams cholesterol, 43 milligrams sodium.
Roasted Chicken with Bacon and Chive Waffles
This combination beats fried chicken and waffles by a mile. The brine ensures a flavorful, moist roast chicken, worth making even if you aren’t in the mood for waffles.
Bacon and Chive Waffles
Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes
Makes: 9 4-by-4-inch waffles
The batter for these waffles is thicker than the other recipes provided. For a more pronounced bacon flavor, Holota suggests doubling the amount of bacon in the recipe. He also suggests serving this savory waffle with a compound butter flavored with parsley, chives, garlic, salt and pepper.
4 slices bacon (about 1/4 pound), diced
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups whole milk
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 eggs
4 teaspoons chopped chives
Whole crisp strips of bacon, for garnish if desired
Broiled lemon halves and fried rosemary sprigs, for garnish
Preheat waffle iron. If needed, brush iron with oil before preheating.
In a medium skillet, cook diced bacon until crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.
In another medium bowl, whisk together milk, butter and eggs. Pour milk mixture into flour mixture and whisk until just incorporated. Add reserved cooked bacon and chives and stir to combine.
Spoon batter into hot iron, covering about three-fourths of the surface. Close iron and cook until waffles are crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove cooked waffles and serve immediately or keep warm. Repeat process with remaining batter.
Serve waffles with chicken and garnished with bacon, lemon halves and rosemary sprigs if desired.
Adapted from a recipe provided by chef Cyrille Holota of BLT Steak Atlanta.
Per waffle: 233 calories (percent of calories from fat, 54), 7 grams protein, 20 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 14 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 83 milligrams cholesterol, 386 milligrams sodium.
Roasted Chicken
Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes plus brining time
Serves: 4
The brine ensures a flavorful, moist roast chicken. It may be the best roast chicken you’ll ever make.
10 cups water, divided
1/2 cup salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
1 bunch parsley, roughly chopped
1/4 cup chopped garlic
6 bay leaves
2 large rosemary sprigs
3 large thyme sprigs, divided
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 (3-pound) chicken
Olive oil, sea salt
1 lemon
Fleur de sel, for garnish
Heat 4 cups water in a microwave or saucepan until very hot.
In a container large enough to hold the chicken and brine, combine hot water with salt and sugar. Stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Add remaining 6 cups water, vinegar, parsley, garlic, bay leaves , rosemary sprigs, 1 thyme sprig, lemon juice and black pepper. Stir to combine. Cover container and refrigerate at least 2 hours.
About 8 hours before planning to serve, immerse chicken in brine. Cover container again and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
When ready to roast chicken, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place a rack in the bottom of a small roasting pan.
Remove chicken from brine, rinse lightly and pat dry. Discard brine. Place chicken in roasting pan and let sit 30 minutes to reach room temperature.
Rub chicken with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Insert lemon and remaining 2 sprigs thyme in cavity of the chicken. Roast chicken for 50 minutes or until the thickest part of the meat reaches 165 degrees. Remove from oven, tent lightly with foil and allow to rest 15 minutes before serving.
When ready to serve, carve chicken and sprinkle with fleur de sel.
Adapted from a recipe provided by chef Cyrille Holota of BLT Steak Atlanta.
Per serving: 307 calories (percent of calories from fat, 40), 36 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 14 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 103 milligrams cholesterol, 873 milligrams sodium.
