General Muir brings N.Y. deli fare to Atlanta


1540 Avenue Place B-230, Atlanta. 678-927-9131, $-$$$

If you count among the legions who complain of the lack of good New York Jewish deli fare in Atlanta, then get thee to the General Muir. Recently opened in Emory Point, a new development across from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, this is your stop for house-made pastrami and corned beef, as well as lox and bagels. And matzo ball soup. And latkes. And gorgeous chopped liver.

That chef Todd Ginsberg can prepare all of this and still put the finishing touches on one of the best new dinner menus in town is, well, a mitzvah. His lighter-than-helium gnocchi stuffed with prune come in a rich oxtail ragu, for a dish that rings true to Eastern European flavors. Meanwhile, his hazelnut-crusted trout over squash puree brings the kind of flat-out great bistro dish you’d welcome anywhere. Pastry chef Lauren Raymond makes lovely, chewy bagels and black-and-white cookies that get raves.

The name, by the way, refers to the vessel that brought co-owner Jennifer Johnson’s mother and grandparents, Holocaust survivors, from Europe.

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