That chef Todd Ginsberg can prepare all of this and still put the finishing touches on one of the best new dinner menus in town is, well, a mitzvah. His lighter-than-helium gnocchi stuffed with prune come in a rich oxtail ragu, for a dish that rings true to Eastern European flavors. Meanwhile, his hazelnut-crusted trout over squash puree brings the kind of flat-out great bistro dish you’d welcome anywhere. Pastry chef Lauren Raymond makes lovely, chewy bagels and black-and-white cookies that get raves.
The name, by the way, refers to the vessel that brought co-owner Jennifer Johnson’s mother and grandparents, Holocaust survivors, from Europe.