When a steaming bowl of this dish arrived at the table, the aromas came swirling from the dark, clear broth. I could discern five-spice, cinnamon and a soothing slight sweetness.

As I dipped my spoon in, I couldn’t help envisioning a cauldron bubbling, as bones and spices were added periodically.

Smooth, hand-pulled noodles complemented the rich broth. The noodles had a firm texture but a springy elasticity. Resting on the noodles were hunks of bone-in roasted duck, the crisp skin lacquered and the meat falling-off-the-bone tender. A pile of scallions and bits of cilantro boosted the bright flavor from the blanched baby bok choy.

There was harmony in the bowl, but with a main player — the broth. As I twisted and stretched the long, slippery noodles, it was the slurpable broth that I wanted. The ginger, star anise, fennel, peppercorn and clove long simmering with beef bones created a savory depth that would be perfect for a day with a bit of chill to it.

LanZhou Ramen. 5231 Buford Highway NE, Doraville. 678-691-2175, lanzhouramenatlanta.com

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