Nestled in a strip mall in Dunwoody, Omakase by Yun already is differentiated from some of its peers simply by its location.
Unlike a cluster of other omakase restaurants (Mujo, Hayakawa and Omakase Table), it’s not located in Atlanta’s west Midtown area, but its location isn’t the only reason Omakase by Yun stands out. The tiny sushi spot also is the most casual and least expensive of these restaurants, making it an excellent entry point for those looking to try out the niche dining format. The 16-course tasting menu at Omakase by Yun costs $185 per person.
Credit: Courtesy of Alin Wu
Credit: Courtesy of Alin Wu
This doesn’t mean you’ll get entry-level sushi. Chef Jonathan Yun has an impressive pedigree (including working for Daisuke Nakazawa of the Michelin-starred Sushi Nakazawa in New York City) and shows a creative flair, especially when it comes to the uncooked items on the menu. He brings in top-notch fish, uni and squid, and makes many other ingredients in-house.
The beverage program also is excellent, with solid cocktails and well-curated wine and sake pairings. And the restaurant does a nice job of walking the service tightrope between casual and luxurious.
The entire dining area of the restaurant is one room, dominated by the sushi bar. There’s also a separate bar for drinks and a small area with lounge-style seating. The setting feels hip, despite the surrounding office buildings, thanks to trendy modern art and an energetic soundtrack. Decadent supplementary courses have slightly risqué names, such as hand rolls called “special handies.”
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The staff’s attention to detail helps justify the cost of the raw ingredients. On each of my visits, the chefs and servers noticed I was left-handed, resetting my chopsticks on my left and presenting nigiri at an opposing angle. Portion sizes sometimes are adjusted for the diner as well. And you’ll find your napkin refolded after a visit to the restroom.
None of those details would matter if the food wasn’t excellent. Unlike other omakase restaurants I’ve reviewed, the menu changed quite a bit between visits, although the structure remained largely the same. Each meal started with a fish carpaccio; the second visit’s umami-rich tai snapper with miso and garlic outshined the salmon that we had the first time around.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Luckily, both menus included a dish called menage a quatre, a raw oyster topped with uni, salmon roe and caviar. This bite of decadence and enigmatic textures early in the meal should reassure diners that they’ll be getting their money’s worth.
The early courses were fortified with a couple of hot dishes, including a clear, fragrant fish broth made with the day’s discarded fish bones. Chawanmushi, an egg custard soup somewhat like soft-scrambled eggs, was served with sweet Hokkaido snow crab.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Moving into the nigiri courses, Yun serves a nice array of fish that tend to stand out from one another. The bite of hay-smoked mackerel was a clear winner, while the fatty tuna was gorgeously rich and clean on each visit. A bite that included two tiny firefly squid was as creative as it was delicious; the minuscule squid popped with a salty-sweet flavor, almost like salmon roe. The traditional finishing course of tamago (a slice of sweetened, cake-like scrambled eggs) used ube (purple yam) to add color and character.
If you get one of the supplements, go with the “Big Mac,” which pushes the limits of nigiri by topping rice with pieces of raw scallop, seared A5 wagyu, fatty tuna and uni. It’s meant to be ridiculous, but the flavors all hold their own, creating a singular, unforgettable bite.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
While Omakase by Yun does a wonderful job of maximizing the dining experience, it remains a very expensive restaurant that lacks many of the luxurious trappings that one expects when spending $200-$300 per person on a meal.
It’s not for everyone, particularly those who like to be in control of their meal and value the trappings of traditional fine dining. But for many people, the experience will be worth it, and the relaxed vibe will be a welcome change of pace.
OMAKASE BY YUN
3 out of 4 stars (excellent)
Food: sushi omakase
Service: chatty, attentive and excellent overall
Noise level: medium
Recommended dishes: “Big Mac” supplement
Vegetarian dishes: This restaurant does not cater to vegetarian diets.
Alcohol: full bar, including sake and wine pairing options
Price range: $$$$$$ (more than $200 per person, excluding drinks)
Hours: 6-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays
Accessibility: wheelchairs accommodated at tables separate from sushi bar
Parking: free lot
MARTA: about a half-mile from Dunwoody and Sandy Springs stations
Reservations: required
Outdoor dining: no
Takeout: no
Address, phone: 4511 Olde Perimeter Way, Dunwoody. 470-395-3068
Website: omakasebyyun.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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