Jay Patel had his first taste of meat in high school, when he accidentally took a bite of a meatball during a football team dinner.
The experience was revelatory for Patel, whose family is from Gujarat, India, where the diet is primarily vegetarian. “It was like my life went from black-and-white to full-blown color,” he said.
Much to his mother’s chagrin, he embraced the meat-eating life, started cooking meat dishes during college, and later making food for friends at parties.
“It came naturally to me,” he said. “I understand ratios and textures and it always turns out well.”
After relocating to Atlanta from his native Chicago three years ago with his wife, he enjoyed exploring the city’s thriving pop-up scene. Patel, who works as a cybersecurity manager, decided it was the perfect time for him to introduce his Indian-meets-Southern cooking to the public.
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
About six months ago, he launched pop-up Dhaba BBQ (instagram.com/thedhababbq). It has since made appearances at beer-focused businesses like Stout Brothers in Smyrna, Round Trip Brewing and Little Cottage Brewing, and the now-shuttered Punk Foodie at Ponce City Market. Patel’s wife, Nikita, who also helps out at pop-ups, came up with the pop-up’s name, a nod to the roadside food stalls that dot the landscape in India.
Patel considers the pop-up not just an opportunity to make his name as a chef, but to “change people’s view of Indian food,” he said. “A lot of times people think of butter chicken and tandoori chicken served with rice, but I’ve turned those into handhelds. People get scared and think everything is really spicy, but I’ve toned a lot of it down.”
His menu also incorporates unexpected flavors and ingredients in dishes like lemon pepper masala wings and a cheesesteak hoagie, which see traditional lemon pepper wet wings and Philly cheesesteak ingredients prepared with Indian spices like ginger, cumin and curries.
The tandoori chicken sandwich is a top-seller, but Patel also remembers his vegetarian roots with the Bombay Masala Sammie, made with plant-based Impossible meat that’s reminiscent of the classic Indian dish Chicken 65.
He sources most of his ingredients from local Indian grocery stores like Patel Brothers, and is working with a supplier to get halal meat for Muslim customers.
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
Sandwiches are served with cilantro and mint-based sauces made with Giardiniera peppers, and served on buns slicked with amul butter, an extra creamy variety sourced from India made with water buffalo and cow’s milk.
He workshops new dishes at monthly dinners with his neighbors, where he gets their feedback and makes sure the spice level is balanced.
“When the common person eats Indian food, a lot of times they think it’s too spicy, but it actually just has a lot of flavor because we have more than salt, black pepper and garlic in our food,” he said. “I just want to make sure it’s palatable to everyone. If one person finds it too spicy, I go back to the lab and work on it.”
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
Credit: Courtesy of Dhaba BBQ
This summer, he’s planning to incorporate sandwiches with brisket and oxtail, and though almost all of his menu items are handhelds, he wants to create an Indian-inspired mac and cheese topped with pulled chicken or pork. He’s also discussing possible collaborations with restaurants and other pop-ups.
“We’re open to whatever doors open in the future,” he said.
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