Kumquats are having a moment at some Atlanta area bars.
The orange-colored, oval fruit pairs with just about any spirit on the backbar, and they are perfect for muddling, although some bartenders prefer to make a syrup.
The olive-sized kumquat has a flavor profile somewhere between a tangerine and a lime. Kumquats are sweet, floral and have a tangy zing. And you don’t have to peel them — the entire fruit can be eaten, including the sweet rind.
Credit: Jarrett Stieber
Credit: Jarrett Stieber
At Summerhill’s Little Bear (71 Georgia Ave., Atlanta. 404-500-5396, littlebearatl.com), kumquats are used in a cocktail called a sunspot. Chef-owner Jarrett Stieber said the drink was developed by bar manager Charles Howk, who “was mostly inspired by how bright and sunny the kumquat’s flavor was and wanted to accentuate it.”
Besides a kumquat cordial, the drink includes Meyer lemon and uses charanda — similar to rum — as the base spirit, further accentuating the brightness. Blue Doris liqueur adds a floral pop, and there’s a little earthy pine from a tincture of hyssop and young hemlock tips. Adding a touch of chile oil on top “gives the lean drink some body and brings a funky depth to the cocktail,” Howk said.
Credit: Morgan Wagoner
Credit: Morgan Wagoner
Matt Watkins, beverage manager at the Deer and the Dove (155 Sycamore St., Decatur. 404-748-4617, deerdove.com), said kumquat season reminds him of his grandmother. “She used to make kumquat pie every winter, so I love working with them, too,” he said. In his kumquat smash, tequila and rum play off each other and a kumquat shrub provides a burst of citrus.
“I made a kumquat and ginger shrub to curb the vegetal agave notes of the tequila just a bit,” Watkins said. The Cocchi Rosa Italian aperitif adds a bitter touch, while bringing out the fruit. The cocktail highlights the tart, refreshing harmony between sweetness and tang from kumquat.
Credit: Heidi Harris
Credit: Heidi Harris
The 1960s-inspired bar Vesper (924 Garrett St., Atlanta. 404-963-6902, vesperatl.com) uses kumquat syrup for a zero-proof winter margarita. It combines a base of Ritual nonalcoholic tequila alternative with house-made sour mix and kumquat syrup, and gets a fizzy lift and a dash of sweetness from Sprite. A full-proof version also is available.
Meanwhile, at home, my Fresh Harvest weekly produce box often comes with kumquats during February. Inspired by local menus, I mixed a rosemary kumquat gin fizz. It was easy, aromatic and bright. The juniper in the gin (I used local Murrell’s Row) played well with the uplifting citrus and wintery rosemary.
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
ROSEMARY KUMQUAT GIN FIZZ
Serves 1
4 kumquats, sliced in half
1 sugar cube
rosemary, 1 sprig loosely chopped
3-4 dashes angostura bitters
2 ounces gin
club soda
Place the kumquats, sugar cube and rosemary into a cocktail shaker. Add the bitters and muddle until the juices are released and the sugar is dissolved. Add the gin and fill with ice. Give about 30 shakes and then strain into a cocktail glass. Top with club soda. Optional: Garnish with a sprig of rosemary.
Per serving: 167 calories (percent of calories from fat, 8), 1 gram protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams total sugars, 2 grams fiber, trace total fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 16 milligrams sodium.
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