Atlanta has long been a great town for a bowl of Korean bi bim bap, an Indian masala dosa or Mexican street taco. It has consistently been a disappointing falafel town until now.
Yalla in Krog Street Market has seriously upped the ATL’s chickpea game, serving these crunchy balls in terrific fresh pita or in bowls they share with a panoply of salads and pickles. Bezoria offers a more basic but still tasty option in Midtown.
I’m most excited by Last Word, where owner Bernard Moussa lets his Lebanese heritage inform both the food and drink. You may have to ask some questions, though. Like, is za’atar really a mixture of herbs and sesame seeds, and does it belong in a cocktail? Yes! Just try the Pliny’s Tonic, a riff on the French 75 enlivened with the spice mixture, and you’ll be a believer.
But before I can call trend on Mediterranean cooking, I’ve got to point out the sudden proliferation of Spanish restaurants.
Gypsy Kitchen in Buckhead Atlanta is big and blowsy, the restaurant equivalent of the too-drunk person at the next barstool who is nonetheless kind of fun to talk to. Have some cheese and salami with a glass of wine, and enjoy it for what it is.
Made Kitchen & Cocktails is the latest from Alpharetta restaurant king Chris Sedgwick. Look for braised short rib croquettes, lamb sweetbreads and seared scallops with fennel and grapefruit on the inventive tapas menu.
The one not to miss? The westside’s Cooks & Soldiers, which brings a sophisticated and edgy take on Basque pintxos (bread canapés) and grilled dishes off a wood-burning asador. Some strikingly modern food hides on this menu, including a tomato tartare so beefy in appearance and flavor you will be shocked to discover it is vegan.
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