Q: Almost a year later, I still recall loving the rhubarb-buttermilk fool at Cakes & Ale. I'd be thrilled if they would share the recipe. Many thanks. — Shari Nagy, Alpharetta
A: While our reader was dreaming about the rhubarb-buttermilk fool at Cakes & Ale, Cynthia Wong left that restaurant and became executive pastry chef at Empire State South. We tracked her down, and she shared the recipe with us. Wong told us she'll be putting this dish on her new dessert menu.
“This is hands-down one of my favorite desserts and I think is a good example of my style, ” Wong said. “The combination is simple, but the flavors are very pure and full of depth, very rich but incredibly light and refreshing, and not too sweet.”
As Wong said, one of the pleasures of this recipe is that it uses rhubarb, the first red fruit of the season, and it makes a nice change from a winter dessert menu that is mostly nuts, chocolate and citrus. “I’m really looking forward to making this dessert again at Empire State South. I’ll probably update the technique behind it to make the textures even lighter and more refreshing, ” Wong said. She prefers Sparkman’s buttermilk, available locally at Whole Foods Market.
Cynthia Wong’s Rhubarb-Buttermilk Fool
2 cups granulated sugar, plus extra if needed for puree and to sweeten cream, divided
2 cups water
1 vanilla bean
1 pound rhubarb, rinsed, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
Fresh lemon juice, if needed
1 3/4 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup buttermilk
To make vanilla syrup: In a small saucepan, combine 2 cups sugar and water. Split vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Place the bean and seeds in the pot with the sugar and water. Over medium-high heat, bring syrup to a boil. Add rhubarb and stir. When syrup comes back to a boil, remove pan from stove and pour rhubarb and syrup into a heatproof container. Discard bean pod. Cool to room temperature.
To make rhubarb puree: Reserve 1 cup rhubarb pieces. Pour remaining rhubarb and syrup into the jar of a blender. Puree until smooth, adding more sugar or lemon juice as needed to adjust flavor. You can use the rhubarb puree as is or do as Wong does at the restaurant and put puree into an ice cream maker, following manufacturer’s directions. When done, freeze mixture. When ready to serve, allow to thaw to half-frozen and proceed with recipe.
To make the whipped cream fool: Pour cream into a medium bowl and add 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar to sweeten. Whip just until before soft peaks form, add buttermilk and whip 1 minute more. Mixture will not be as stiff as whipped cream but will be airy and light.
To prepare individual servings: Alternate layers of whipped cream fool and rhubarb puree in 6 chilled glasses. Top with pieces of poached rhubarb. Serve immediately. Serves: 6
Per serving: 518 calories (percent of calories from fat, 44), 3 grams protein, 72 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 26 grams fat (16 grams saturated), 96 milligrams cholesterol, 50 milligrams sodium.
