Buckhead’s Smokebelly a celebration of Southern culture

Service: extremely helpful and well matched to the setting in their old gas-station-style uniforms

Best dishes: peppadew peppers, pork rinds, watermelon salad, smoked turkey

Vegetarian selections: salads

———————-

Price range: $$-$$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays

Children: fine

Parking: dedicated lot

Reservations: no

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate to high

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 128 E. Andrews Drive N.W., Atlanta. 404-848-9100.

Website: www.smokebellybbq.com

I don’t watch much TV.

But if there was ever a show that could suck me in, it would be “American Pickers” on the History channel. I find it fascinating to watch the celebration of American culture as the hosts find what they call “rusty gold.” Uncovering bits of Americana as they pick through salvage, they’re “telling the history of America one piece at a time.”

The new Buckhead barbecue restaurant Smokebelly celebrates Southern culture in much the same way. The decor, a product of what co-owner Chris Hadermann calls “endless trips to the Scott Antique Market,” features many upcycled items, all repurposed for both decorative and functional uses. Old Ford tailgates flank booth ends, salvaged iron porch railings cordon off a small stage and rusted silo lids have been fashioned into chandeliers. Plan to play an “I spy” game to identify the original uses for each of the antiques used in the deep-pocket decor.

Smokebelly attempts to fill the smoke shack gap in Buckhead with what it calls “chef-crafted ‘cue.” Yet here’s where that smart design detracts from the fare, building expectations sky high. Everything else is over-the-top and you’d expect the grub to follow suit. But the flavors here are just too delicate for barbecue. Instead, those cheffy touches favor the “skinny fixins,” or light barbecue tapas, that were created to appeal to women and those who want a lighter meal before a night out on the town.

I suppose the plan worked as intended because those lighter bites definitely appeal to me. And they might be a smart idea after I consume too many of the crackling pork rinds offered in place of bread service.

I’m good for an order of the crisp lettuce wraps ($6.50) filled with a mixed-texture medley of edamame, corn, blue cheese crumbles, cherry tomatoes, smoked almonds and a tart citrus-cilantro vinaigrette. I’d also go for the blistered peppadew peppers ($6.50), not ground-breaking but satisfyingly warm with goat cheese, smoked almonds and black-pepper honey.

Perhaps my favorite was the simple summery watermelon salad ($4.75), a nice play of smoked feta, sweet watermelon, pickled onions and fresh mint. Little did I know the only smoky notes I’d get from the meals at this Buckhead barbecue barn would come from that cheese.

Smokebelly’s mixed-style ‘cue is something of a celebration of Southern culture in and of itself. Whether you take a Carolina mustard sauce or an Alabama white, Smokebelly has it. Not satisfied with the traditional or vinegar-based bottles on the table? Head on over to the sauce bar to try one of another six or so varieties, all made in-house and all with subtle differences. The Coca-Cola-spiced version is a fun representation of our town, if not the one I’d first eat with my pulled pork ($13.75).

The chopped smoked brisket ($14.50) comes with its own sauce that echoes its dry rub. Tender little cubes of 21-hour smoked Angus beef derive their flavor from the coffee-cocoa-cinnamon-studded spices.

But you’ll likely need something with other meats. If you take it dry, you’ll notice the absence of the smoke that gives barbecue its beguiling appeal. The kitchen uses a mixture of hickory, pecan and peach woods in the smoker. I’d sure love to taste a bit of that.

I do get a little hickory from the sliced, smoked turkey breast ($13.25), which is massively moist from its wet brine. You might not even need a sauce here. Make your meal a combo ($16.25), pairing that turkey with the smoked sausage. The links may not give you much wood-flavor, but the charred casings burst with savory juices.

Let’s talk about sides. We Southerners take our veg seriously and have some strong opinions here. Some may like the thin, edamame-studded Brunswick stew ($3), but I’ll take mine a little thicker with a punch of heat and vinegar. Some folks may expect ham-flavored collards, but I can get on board with Smokebelly’s vinegary braised kale. I want my sides to stand up to my ‘cue.

The bar menu here does pair well with the fare. Cocktails like the blackberry whiskey smash ($8) add fruity freshness to an otherwise hefty meal. And if you prefer a brew, Smokebelly offers a nice selection from some of the heavy hitters in the world of craft beer. You might grab one of a couple of dozen options on draft like the Finch’s Fascist Pig ($8) or one of the bottles/cans including Evil Twin Hipster Ale ($7).

Smokebelly’s dessert menu also features a bit of Americana with the Coca-Cola sheet cake ($4). The rectangle of cake, so thick with cola it tastes like sticky-toffee pudding, comes topped with smushed, greasy chocolate icing and whipped topping that tastes like it came from a can. It’s so wrong, but oh, so very right at the same time. I kind of love this dessert.

Hadermann said they wanted to create an experience at Smokebelly, one to celebrate Southern culture. They’ve certainly done that. Now, they just need to tweak the experience so that the ‘cue delivers what the decor promises.