RECENTLY REVIEWED RESTAURANTS: Six Feet Under

Call it a crowd pleaser. Six Feet Under is one of those places that seems to defy nit-picking by virtue of a playful personality and populist food and drink. Billed as a "Pub & Fish House," the concept is a clever mash-up of a contemporary beer bar and a beachside seafood shack, with Southern and Tex-Mex twists. The Memorial Drive location, recently relocated to the Jane Building, sports a spacious bar area and dining room with a rustic-industrial look featuring distressed wood, exposed brick, concrete floors and high ceilings. The roof deck offers striking views of Oakland Cemetery and the downtown skyline. Grilled catfish or blackened shrimp tacos remain menu favorites, served three to an order, folded in flour tortillas, with cheese, pickled jalapeno, tomato, shredded cabbage and a side of salsa verde. Freshly fried, crunchy potato chips are the most popular side. For a reliably decadent indulgence, there's the cornmeal-dusted fried shrimp, served with sweet and spicy hush puppies and jalapeno tartar sauce. Other items range from raw or baked oysters, peel-and-eat shrimp and steamed crab legs, mussels and clams to shrimp and grits and blackened or fried catfish. A second location is at 685 11th St. on the west side.

IF YOU GO

Cuisine: Seafood