Throughout my childhood I spent at least one week every summer at The Cloister at Sea Island. In my early years, The Cloister was a place for me to learn proper behavior and etiquette -- from which fork to use to the necessity of a finger bowl after your meal. As I got older, I learned to appreciate its splendor and history. Oaks planted by some of the most important figures in history dotted the landscape, each bearing a plaque with the name of the person who planted it and the story behind their visit. (Margaret Thatcher’s was always a favorite.)

Most importantly, The Cloister was about family. It was the place my own family had the best times together; a place where other families would introduce themselves at the pool and become our friends for the duration of our stay; a place I never imagined I would visit without my family. But here I am, 10 years since my last visit, returning to the scene of my happy youth.

Since the last time I was there, the resort had undergone a major reconstruction and endured financial difficulties, having filed bankruptcy in August. But it was continuing to operate, and I wanted to see if it still lived up to my memories.

Nestled on the Georgia coast between the Atlantic Ocean and the marshes of the Black Banks River, The Cloister I knew growing up was the definition of luxury, from the Mediterranean architecture constructed in 1928, to the afternoon finger sandwiches served in the living room, to the whimsical solarium where caged finches chirped all day. But in 2006, the resort had reinvented itself with a three-year, $350 million makeover. The dated guest houses in which my family stayed were replaced with plush Mediterranean-style villas called The Beach Club Residences. The original Cloister was demolished, but pieces were salvaged (including the stained glass windows) and used in the construction of the new Cloister on a spot with views of the salt marshes and Black Banks River.

In addition to the new views, The Cloister now boasts 175 guest rooms and suites, as well as a jaw-dropping lobby complete with a grand staircase and an enormous fireplace. While things have changed, many traditions remain. Ballrooms still offer families a place to play Bingo, a time-honored Cloister activity, and there are spectacular options for couples who host their nuptials at the resort.

In the River Suite where we stayed, rustic meets opulence as dark wood coffered ceilings in the sitting room and bedroom provide a perfect balance to the outdoor elements, and a balcony offers a perfect spot for relaxation. Not that we had much time to relax. The Cloister offers tons of activities, including skeet shooting, horseback riding, fishing, boating and crabbing. Consistently rated one of the top golf resorts in the country by Golf Digest, the two 18-hole courses at the Sea Island Golf Club hosted the McGladrey Classic PGA tour earlier this year. And the Cloister Spa and Fitness Center, replicating a woodland complete with babbling brook, stone pathways and live trees, offers a variety of treatments and services in the tranquil setting.

Nestled among palm trees, cabanas and thatched bars at the Sea Island Beach Club are three swimming pools, one for adults only, just steps away from the Atlantic. But the Beach Club offers more than swimming and sunbathing. The facility has a snack bar, an old-fashioned ice cream shop serving the resort’s signature Gold Brick sundae and a candy shop. It’s also home to Big George’s, a full-service restaurant offering breakfast and lunch buffets, as well as seafood, sandwiches and salads from the menu.

Fine dining options include the five-star Georgian Room, serving a seasonal menu in an elegant atmosphere; and for the meat-and-potatoes crowd there is Colt & Alison at The Cloister’s nearby sister hotel, The Lodge.

Yes, there have been many changes at the resort and there are still more to come. In November it was announced that the property would be sold to Sea Island Acquisition, a limited partnership of investment firms. But as my visit proved, the family-friendly atmosphere, the unparalleled level of service and the elegant luxury that have defined The Cloister for more than 80 years continue to endure, and it is poised to remain the jewel of the Golden Isles for years to come. And I don’t plan to wait another 10 years to find my way back.

If you go

The Cloister at Sea Island: Rates start at $349. 100 Cloister Drive, Sea Island, GA 31561.

Getting there: Sea Island is 285 miles southeast of Atlanta and takes about five hours to drive. For air travel, fly into Jacksonville, Fla. (79 miles south), Savannah (85 miles north) or Brunswick (30 miles west).

Info: 1-866-879-6238, www.seaisland.com.

Special packages

Christmas at The Cloister

Dec. 21-30

The two-night package includes accommodations at The Cloister, daily buffet breakfast and a dinner for two in the Georgian Room or Colt & Alison at The Lodge.

Rates begin at $485 single and $525 double per night, plus $35 nightly resort fee and tax.

New Year's Celebration at Sea Island

Dec. 30-Jan. 2

The two-night package includes accommodations at The Cloister, The Cloister Beach Club, The Cloister Ocean Villas or The Lodge; New Year’s Eve dinner for two (reservations required) at Colt & Alison at The Lodge, 100 Hudson at The Cloister or Big George’s at The Cloister Beach Club; New Year’s Eve party in The Cloister Ballroom or at The Cloister Beach Club; fireworks at midnight; New Year’s Day brunch for two at Big George’s; and a breakfast for two.

Rates start at $625 per night, double

Just for Georgia Residents

Available for a limited time

Rates start at $325 per night at The Cloister or The Lodge

Package includes accommodations at The Cloister, The Cloister Beach Club, The Cloister Ocean Villas or The Lodge

Special package rates are based on availability; some conditions may apply. Cannot be combined with other offers or packages.

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