The Cuban sandwich is an American invention, a pressed sandwich of roast pork, ham and Swiss cheese with salami if you’re a fan of the Tampa version and no salami if you’re a Miami purist. Fortunately, whichever style you prefer, Ozzy Llanes of Cubanos ATL in Sandy Springs has you covered. And if want a version with no pork at all, he’s got that, too. It’s called El Pollo.
When he opened his sandwich and coffee stand in August, there were people standing — socially distanced — in line right from the start. “That gave folks lots of time to stand there and talk about which version was their favorite and maybe talk about the distance between Tampa and Miami,” he remembers as he laughs about the rivalry between cities as the real home of the Cuban sandwich.
The limited menu — sandwiches, coffee, a few extras — for Cubanos ATL isn’t the long-term plan. “When we get a bigger kitchen, we’ll have more Cuban favorites. We’ll be serving some of the things my parents still make, the flan and croquetas I grew up with, Palomilla steak, stewed chicken with tomatoes and potatoes, served over white rice. We Cubans love our carbs on carbs.”
Llanes smiles when he says the vegetable that’s most popular in his parents' household these days is the pickle that goes in the Cuban sandwich. “We didn’t grow up with salads. If we cut up an avocado, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, that counts as a vegetable side dish.”
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
He came to the United States with his parents, Osvaldo Llanes and Amarilys Llanes, in 1995. “My dad is the youngest of seven and most of my uncles and aunts came to the States in the ’60s and ’80s, which were the big time for Cubans to move here. My family started the paperwork to come here in 1986, and it took almost 10 years for the paperwork to be processed.”
They lived and worked in Miami until Ozzy moved to Atlanta 10 years ago. His parents came too, and live nearby.
“My mom would tell you she’s not a fan of cooking, but they cook every day. They don’t seem to know they could go to a restaurant three times a week. That’s just not their mindset. So they cook. My dad’s specialty is the beans and my mom does everything else. Black beans, red beans. They remember eating that way in Cuba, and when it was a good day, the beans would be garbanzos. But my favorite dish that they make is the Palomilla steak with french fries and rice.”
When Llanes decided to open his restaurant, he wanted to start small. Cuban sandwiches and coffee. That’s what they would do. “Honestly, our success has been surprising. We didn’t know if we would get the Latin community, the Cuban community. But we know our coffee and use the best beans, the best machine so we can compete with the big guys. Everybody started showing up. Some just to be sure I could speak Spanish. Neighbors. People of all different backgrounds.”
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
Cubanos ATL opens at 8 in the morning and serves coffee and Cuban toast. “You add butter or cheese and you dip it in the coffee. And the toast is pressed. Everything is pressed. I’d press the clients if they’d let us.”
Llanes says pressing the bread is what brings it to life. There are ham and cheese croissants available in the mornings, too, topped with a sweet glaze. And yes, they’re pressed.
RECIPES
Chef Ozzy Llanes and his parents, Osvaldo Llanes and Amarilys Llanes, share recipes for their style of Cuban home cooking.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
Fricassee de Pollo con Papas
Amarilys Llanes prepares this dish in a pressure cooker. We adapted it as a stovetop braise for those without pressure cookers or Instant Pots.
Complete Seasoning, or Sazón Completa, is generally a mix of garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper, cumin, dried parsley and dried oregano. You may find it in the Hispanic foods section of your grocer, but you will certainly find it at a Hispanic market.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
Bistec de Palomilla and French Fries
Sour orange juice (naranja agria) may be sold in the Hispanic food section of your grocer, or you may need to go to a Hispanic market. Otherwise, use a mixture of orange juice and fresh lime juice. Using top sirloin and marinating it as the recipe directs is the key to tender beef that melts in your mouth.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
Serrano Ham and Bechamel Croquetas
These croquetas were great for dinner, but reheated for breakfast? They satisfied any cravings for a crisp, savory treat. Our advice? Try not to eat them all in one sitting. Save some for breakfast.
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