Spring is peak season for artichokes, the edible prickly bud of a plant that, if left to bloom, would yield fields of stunning purple flowers.
Kevin Fisher, executive sous chef at Sea Root at the Hyatt Regency Monterey Hotel and Spa, spent 11 years in Perry, Georgia, when his dad’s job in the produce business brought him South. In Georgia, the family ate fresh vegetables every day, including artichokes. “I tell people I didn’t know vegetables came in a can until I was 22.”
The most popular artichoke dish on Fisher’s menu is his Fennel Sausage-Stuffed Artichokes, based on traditional stuffed artichokes but reimagined to be easier to serve and eat.
Credit: Chris Poplawski
Credit: Chris Poplawski
“People love it because it’s not as elaborate as the traditional version. This way they get the flavors from the stuffing and the meaty artichoke heart in every bite,” Fisher said. “And when people try it with us and see how good it is, they are tempted to try making it at home.”
Judy Burditt of the California Artichoke Advisory Board suggests enjoying artichokes in vegetarian chili with artichokes as the star ingredient, artichoke guacamole made with pureed artichoke hearts, turkey stuffed with sundried tomatoes and artichokes, artichoke salsa, and even chocolate-covered artichoke hearts and artichoke cupcakes. “I’ve served artichokes steamed, boiled, grilled, pureed, sauteed and stewed. Your imagination is the only limit.”
Buying, storing and steaming artichokes
Look for small- to medium-size artichokes with stems the width of a quarter. The leaves should be tight at the crown and the artichoke should squeak when you squeeze it.
Slice 1/8-inch off the stem and arrange the artichokes in a bowl like a bunch of flowers, with just enough water to come 1/2-inch up the stems, until ready to steam. They can sit at room temperature for up to two days.
To steam an artichoke: wash it under cool running water to remove any dirt between the leaves. Pull off and discard lower petals along the stem. Cut off and discard the top quarter of the artichoke. If desired, trim the thorns from the tips of each artichoke petal.
Put artichokes in a steamer on the stove or in the microwave. Cooking times vary by freshness, size and variety and can range from 20 to 50 minutes on the stovetop and 6 to 7 minutes on high in the microwave. To check if the artichoke is done, use a sharp knife to pierce through the stem. If it goes in easily, the artichoke is ready. Stand the artichokes upside down on a rack to drain.
When the artichokes are cool enough to handle, gently separate the leaves at the top and pull out the purple-tinged leaves at the center. Use a teaspoon to scoop out the fuzzy center at the base of the artichoke. This is the choke and should be discarded along with the purple-tinged leaves. The bottom, or heart of the artichoke, is entirely edible.
RECIPES
Celebrate artichoke season with fresh artichokes and jarred artichoke hearts. Freshly steamed artichokes shine in a composed salad as well as stuffed with sausage. Store-bought artichoke hearts make easy work of an Italian antipasti and an inspired take on a green bean casserole.
Credit: Shutterstock
Credit: Shutterstock
Sausage-Stuffed Artichokes
This recipe from Kevin Fisher, executive sous chef at Sea Root, at the Hyatt Regency Monterey Hotel and Spa, is a variation of traditional stuffed artichokes. Fisher makes his own sausage with coarsely ground pork, toasted fennel seeds, parsley, cayenne, oregano and garlic, but says using purchased sweet or spicy Italian sausage is fine.
For nutritional calculations, a “pinch” is defined as 1/16 teaspoon.
Credit: Jody Fausett
Credit: Jody Fausett
Suzi Sheffield’s Spring Artichoke Salad
Beautiful Briny Sea owner Suzi Sheffield was inspired by a recent trip to Paris when she created this recipe.
Sheffield says that the hazelnuts can be replaced with toasted pecans, pine nuts or almonds, and additions could be other spring ingredients such as pea shoots, microgreens and nasturtiums. Sheffield used a 4-inch ring mold to create a perfectly composed salad. If you don’t have a ring mold, put 1 cup of dressed ingredients on each salad plate and form a neat 4-inch circle before topping with the sliced artichokes.
Purchase artichokes with long stems, if possible, to make it easier to slice the artichoke. We found ours at Whole Foods. When trimming the leaves off the steamed artichokes, do not discard the leaves; save them as a snack to enjoy dipped in the remaining vinaigrette.
For nutritional calculations, a “pinch” is defined as 1/16 teaspoon.
Vinaigrette
Extra vinaigrette can be used to dress a lettuce salad or used as a dip for the artichoke leaves left over from preparing the salad.
Credit: Ryan Aaron
Credit: Ryan Aaron
Grilled Baby Artichokes, Herb Pangrattato and Salsa Verde
This dish is offered as an antipasti on the dinner menu at Tre Vele, the Sandy Springs Italian restaurant, from chef-partner Ian Winslade. “One of the greatest pleasures of cooking in spring are seasonal artichokes,” Winslade says. “Their thorny exterior, once cleaned away, reveal a delicate center that loves the acidity of lemon and also sweetens on the grill.”
The restaurant uses Sacla Italia brand of young marinated artichokes. We tested this recipe with marinated artichokes from Trader Joe’s. Elderflower syrup is available at Whole Foods and World Market. At Tre Vele, they make breadcrumbs with herb focaccia that has been allowed to dry out, then processed into crumbs and toasted in a skillet with olive oil.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The Optimist’s Haricots Verts with Artichoke and Shiitake Gremolata
Mike Pitts, chef de cuisine at The Optimist, shared his surprising inspiration for this dish. “Everyone looks forward to the delicious green bean casserole during the holidays, right? Well, we wanted to recreate that flavor and sense memory, even during the hotter seasons. So we made an herbaceous, brighter version using artichokes and shiitake mushrooms in a gremolata topping, all over freshly blanched and snappy haricots verts [French green beans].”
The restaurant uses Romana-style Marinella brand artichoke hearts in sunflower oil. The Romana seasoning includes parsley, basil and garlic. Colatura di alici is Roman fish sauce made from anchovies, available on Amazon or stores specializing in Italian groceries. Pitts says it’s fine to substitute Asian fish sauce. Crispy shallots for the garnish are available at many grocery stores or can be made by sauteing thinly sliced shallots in extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high heat until shallots are golden brown, about 20 minutes.
The artichoke and shiitake gremolata is delicious, so consider doubling the batch to use the entire jar of marinated artichoke hearts. Use leftover gremolata on avocado toast, alongside grilled meats or fish or to dress hot pasta.
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