Before I can take a bite, I head to the back of Kingston’s Caribbean, to fetch the cold canned Cokes included in the lunch special. By the time I return, my guest has broken into our soup of the day, a hearty brown concoction of red peas and beef. “This is really good,” she tells me excitedly.
At this humble Candler Road storefront, you order at a walk-up counter, and eat out of plastic foam clamshells, with plastic utensils. But, the cooks sure know how to make an unforgettable pot of soup, be it fish tea, goat’s head, chicken or that luscious red peas with beef. These supremely flavorful, long-simmered broths are conjured the proper way — from bones, collagen, skin, herbs, spice. If you find yourself fishing an allspice berry from the bottom of the cup, or plucking a thyme twig from your teeth, consider yourself lucky. Therein is the magic.
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Over three visits, I’ve fallen under the spell of the excellent brown-stew chicken, curry goat and oxtail. These gravy-laden dishes ooze their essential goodness into the rest of the plate — killer rice and peas; sweet, caramelized plantains; and shredded and braised cabbage. Though I’m often told that delicious Jamaican food is plentiful in our town, I’ve been at a loss as to where to find it. Now, I have: at Kingston’s.
A great way to sample the fare is at lunch, when chicken is fried, jerked, stewed and curried, and comes with your choice of two sides and a drink, all for $7.99. I was exceedingly happy with the curry and the brown stew, though somewhat underwhelmed by the jerk. Jamaica’s most famous dish, jerk is best when it’s peppered aggressively and grilled to charry perfection. Kingston’s appears lightly marinated and baked, which doesn’t allow the flavors to pop.
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
At lunch, you’ll find Jamaican mainstays (the splendid oxtail and curry goat); daily specials (brown-stew turkey wings, jerk pork, peppered steak, cow foot, tripe); and made-to-order seafood and pasta offerings — all worth exploring.
Many items can be had in small or large portions. I’ve found the smaller size to be an extravagant meal for one, also suitable for sharing. Most dishes come with rice, and while plain jasmine may be good for balancing the prickliness of Scotch bonnet, the rice and peas should not be passed up. It’s perfection.
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Credit: Wendell Brock / For the Atlanta Journal-Constitution
If you like chewy collagen, consider the cow foot ‘n’ beans. You won’t find a lot of meat on the bones, but it’s impeccably prepared and deeply flavorful.
Among the seafood entrees, an escovitch of red-snapper was a virtual feast, for $28. A whole fried fish came nestled under a mélange of pickled veggies, with generous scoops of rice, cabbage and plantains. So substantial is the dish that it is packed in a buffet-size aluminum pan with a lid. Meant to be shared, this spectacular meal will transport you from nondescript Candler Road to the islands of the Caribbean.
KINGSTON’S CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT
Food: Caribbean, mostly Jamaican
Service: could be a bit more hospitable
Best dishes: goat’s head soup, red peas soup, curry goat, oxtail, snapper escovitch, brown-stew chicken, curry chicken, rice and peas
Vegetarian selections: vegetable Rasta pasta, rice and peas, jasmine rice, salad, cabbage, plantains, mac and cheese
Alcohol: no
Price range: $-$$
Pandemic safety: signs ask patrons to mask up and maintain a safe social distance
Credit cards: all major cards accepted
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Children: yes
Parking: free in the rather tight lot
MARTA station: Decatur
Reservations: no
Wheelchair access: yes
Noise level: low
Takeout: yes; food is packed in convenient to-go containers; delivery via Postmates, DoorDash, UberEats
Address, phone: 2100 Candler Road, Decatur. 678-974-5982
Website: kingstoncaribbeanrestaurant.com
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