If you think about artichokes as a crop, you probably imagine rows and rows of them growing in fields in central California. After all, the nation’s annual artichoke festival is held about this time in Castroville, just north of California’s Monterey peninsula.
Here in metro Atlanta, we have at least one field of artichokes. It’s in Newnan at Renew Farm, where Ian and Alishia Giusto are gathering their third artichoke harvest.
In 2011, they put in their first crop just to see what would happen. “We like to grow things that people think can’t be grown here,” said Alishia Giusto. “We planted our artichokes, and it just worked. Ian has a green thumb.”
They started with seed, growing ‘Tempo’ and ‘Imperial Star’ — purple and green varieties, respectively. They harvested artichokes that first season.
The artichoke is a perennial plant. So in the winter, the Giustos cut the plants down to just a stalk and mulched them with hay. Come spring, the plants bush out to “azalea size,” says Giusto.
Each plant produces a crop of large artichokes and a crop of baby artichokes, as well. There’s a first flush of artichokes, which grow quickly in the spring, and a second fall flush that Giusto finds to be more tender than the first.
You can buy their artichokes at Newnan’s Our Community Farmers Market or through Farmers Fresh CSA. “In April, we sold baby and ‘adult’ artichokes through Fresh Point Atlanta and they went to chef David Sweeney at Restaurant Eugene. We’re told everyone at the restaurant was very excited to have such beautiful artichokes available locally,” said Giusto.
Giusto says her favorite preparation for artichokes is a simple one. “I roast them in the oven and then peel off each leaf and dip it in garlic butter. I don’t like boiling them because I think it makes the artichoke heart soggy,” she said.
The artichoke is a member of the thistle family and the part we eat is actually the flower bud. If left to continue to ripen, the thread-like “choke” sprouts into a thistle-like flower in the most gorgeous shade of purple.
When preparing artichokes, watch out for the little thorn at the end of each leaf. Use kitchen shears to make short work of removing them. Pull off the small lower leaves, then cut off the stem about an inch from the base of the leaves. Cut off the top quarter and make sure the thorns are removed from the remaining leaves. Now you’re ready to boil, steam or roast your artichoke. Baby artichokes are even easier to prepare; trim the tops and bottoms and the whole thing will be edible.
If you’re one of those intimidated by the thought of eating a full-grown artichoke, don’t be. Peel each petal or leaf off the artichoke and dip it into sauce or melted butter. Pull the petal through your teeth to remove the soft, pulpy portion and discard the rest. When you get down to the heart, spoon out the fuzzy choke, then cut the remaining heart into small pieces. Dip into sauce or butter and enjoy.
At local farmers markets
Cooking demos:
4-8 p.m., Thursday, May 9. Chef Seth Freedman of Forage and Flame offers demos throughout the evening.
9 a.m., Saturday, May 11. Chef Kevin Gillespie, working with hareuki turnips. Morningside Farmers Market, Atlanta.
10 a.m., Saturday, May 11. Chef Chris Hall, Local Three. Peachtree Road Farmers Market, Atlanta.
10 a.m., Sunday, May 12. Chinese Southern Belles. Grant Park Farmers Market, Atlanta.
For sale
Vegetables and fruit: arugula, artichokes, Asian greens, asparagus, beets, broccoli raab, cabbage, carrots, celery, chard, collards, cucumbers, dandelion, English peas, fennel, garlic, garlic scapes, green garlic, herbs, kale, kohlrabi, lamb’s quarters, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, mustard greens, radishes, rutabaga, sorrel, spinach, spring onions, strawberries, sugar snaps, tomatoes, turnips
From local reports
Ian Forrest’s Sautéed Baby Artichokes
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 20 minutes
Serves: 6
Ian Forrest of FLIP Burger Boutique provided this recipe that makes a great introduction to artichokes for those who have been reluctant to try cooking them. One of the nicest things about baby artichokes? You can eat the whole thing. No pulling off of leaves or cutting away the choke.
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, divided
1 1/2 pounds smallest baby artichokes (about 14)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, divided
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, more if desired
In a medium saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil.
Set aside a large bowl of water and add 3 tablespoons lemon juice.
While water is coming to a boil, prepare artichokes. Working with one artichoke at a time, trim off the bottom 1/8 inch, pull off the dark outer leaves and trim 1/2 inch off the top. Cut in half and then drop them into the lemon water. Continue with remainder of artichokes.
When water is boiling, add artichokes. Discard lemon water. Cook until artichokes are tender, about 3 minutes. Test by inserting a paring knife into the base of the artichoke. Drain well.
In a large skillet, melt olive oil and 1 teaspoon butter over high heat. Add garlic and stir for 10 seconds. Add artichokes, season with salt and pepper, and saute until golden brown on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Stir in remaining tablespoon lemon juice and remaining teaspoon butter. Sprinkle with fresh rosemary and serve.
Per serving: 66 calories (percent of calories from fat, 59), 2 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 5 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 43 milligrams sodium.
