The Irish pub is one of the great hallmarks of Irish culture. But as the book “Irish Pubs in America” (Deeds Publishing, $49.95) highlights, they’ve become a fixture from New York City to Honolulu, too. What’s more, Americans now celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a partying fervor not found anywhere in Ireland.
Dubliner Ian Macken has worked in Irish pubs all over the world, including Fado in Buckhead and Meehan’s in downtown Atlanta. But in 2020, Macken opened Wheelhouse Craft Pub and Kitchen in Decatur.
Partnering with his wife, Kathryn, his brother Rob, and Rob’s wife, Stephanie, the four took over the former Maddy’s Rib Joint space on Scott Boulevard, and transformed it into their vision of a modern Irish pub.
“You had the breakout of the Irish pubs in the 1990s, with Fado and others, and some of the food was elevated pub grub. That’s how we thought about Wheelhouse,” Macken said. “We are Irish. I’ve been in Irish pubs 20 years over here. But this one is different. We said, ‘Let’s not be too Irish.’ You won’t see the diddly diddle, shamrocks and leprechaun-on-the-wall thing.”
While there’s Guinness on tap, poured through a dedicated nitrogen generator, there’s plenty of beers from nearby Atlanta breweries, as well.
“We’re doing the authentic Irish pub, thinking back to our locals in Dublin, so we wanted to do a local here in Decatur, and have local beer,” Macken said. “We are locals. I’m half a mile that way. Rob’s a half a mile the other way. And this is our local. Also, our wives are American, so there’s a little bit of everything.”
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Describing the menu, Macken compares and contrasts its mix of Irish staples like fish and chips with surprising stuff like fried mac and cheese, and even keto, gluten-free and vegetarian options.
“It’s Irish-inspired, but there’s stuff on the menu you’d never see in Ireland,” he said. “God knows, I’d never eaten cauliflower Parmesan mash when I was in Ireland. Or the Nashville hot chicken sandwich. We came up with the Macken cheese balls to have a little fun. And then we’re slinging pints and frying burgers like every other bar is.”
For St. Patrick’s Day, Wheelhouse will throw a bit of a party, but it will be fairly low-key. The kitchen came up with a special bread pudding spiked with Slane Irish Whiskey, and there will be some live music, along with a few drink specials.
“That holiday exists over here in Chicago and Savannah and Boston,” Macken said. “It’s funny. We went to parades, because we had the day off, but we still had to go to church. It was never wear green or you get pinched, or whatever that thing was.”
RECIPES
These recipes from Wheelhouse Craft Pub and Kitchen are a good example of how modern Irish pubs mix tradition with more creative dishes and flavors.
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Leek and Potato Soup
Rich and creamy, this soup takes the Irish staple, potatoes, and adds the flavors of leeks and garlic. Serve it as a starter, or for lunch, plain, or garnished with cheddar cheese and chives.
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Ale Battered Fried Fish
Coated in a batter of tempura flour and pale ale, this take on fried codfish comes out crunchy, and is perfect served with fries and slaw.
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Credit: CHRIS HUNT
Irish Bread Pudding
The Wheelhouse kitchen St. Patrick’s Day special bread pudding gets its heady flavor from a wee bit of Irish whiskey.
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