Heirloom, a Korean fusion smoked meat mainstay, has drawn plenty of fans hungry for its miso-flavored brisket, gochujang-rubbed ribs and barbecue sandwiches. The storefront off a frontage road requires online orders for pickup, and, if you can find space at a table on the small patio, you can stand and eat your food, once it’s ready.
But, Heirloom is mostly for takeout, and one of the dishes your taste buds will have a hard time getting over is the pound of wings for $15. The smoky scent wafting from the bag sitting next to you in your car may tempt you to tear into the takeout container while driving. Resist the urge; that could get a little messy. Wait until you properly can dip each wing into the tangy kimchi mayo as the perfect complement to the tender, smoked chicken.
The wings are the product of 24 hours of marinating in gochujang, two hours of smoking, a dip in the fryer and a toss in hot sauce with vinegar, chile, ginger and garlic.
More than just spicy buffalo, a single order of these wings with dipping sauce and a bit of pickled vegetables gets you creamy, spicy, smoky, sweet, saucy and zesty. - Kelly Yamanouchi , Photo by Kelly Yamanouchi