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For an original bite of Atlanta, try a pop-up pizzeria



For many culinary entrepreneurs, the pandemic was a nudge to follow their dreams, often with pop-up restaurants. Here are three pop-up pizzerias, all Black-owned and worth seeking out.

Dolo’s Pizza Co.

When I first discovered Alyson Williams and Yusef Walker, they were selling their highly original pies — think jerk chicken, plantain, callaloo and a sauce made from Jamaican ackee fruit — at Gilly Brew Bar in Stone Mountain. Recently, they set up shop in Underground Atlanta.

The Caribbean twists are a tribute to Walker’s Jamaican and Cuban heritage. I’m pretty smitten with these thin, not too cluttered, 12-inch pies. Try the Matey (mozzarella, marinara, jerk chicken, blue cheese and honey) or the Coliseum, a new vegan star with lemongrass Impossible beef, broccoli and red onion. Probably the edgiest choice is the Black, which gets its name from charcoal pesto and the black truffle oil drizzled over spinach, roasted tomato and mozzarella.

50 Lower Alabama St. SW, Atlanta. dolospizza.co

Credit: Drew Amandolia

Credit: Drew Amandolia

Phew’s Pies

Atlanta loves lemon pepper, so when Matthew Foster decided to pay tribute to his hometown with a pie, the zesty flavor combo was the natural choice. Foster’s wet pizza is a zingy dance of lemon-pepper sauce, shredded and fresh mozzarella, Parmesan, a hit of dried basil and — ta-dah — a pair of lemon-pepper flats crisped in an air fryer, plus lemon wedges. The hot version adds hot lemon-pepper wings and squiggles of Phew’s hot sauce. I love ‘em both. If Foster ever decides to open a wings parlor, I’ll be the first in line. For now, his thin, Neapolitan-influenced pies, including Margherita and oxtail and ricotta, are essential Atlanta eating.

Follow on Instagram for pop-up locations: instagram.com/phewpies. 470-338-0658, phewspies.com

Credit: Wendell Brock

Credit: Wendell Brock

Bear Pizzeria

My personalized 100% plant-based pizza was topped with mushroom, onion and feta, all on a wonderfully chewy, herb-flecked crust. Brandon and Maja Covington’s vegan pizzas can be ordered for pickup or delivery; enjoyed at local breweries and other pop-up venues; or bought frozen at Living Well Farmers Market in Suwanee, Nuts ’n Berries in Decatur, or the Local Exchange in Marietta.

Follow on Instagram for pop-up locations: instagram.com/bearpizzeria. 470-800-2101, bearpizzeriavegan.com

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